Baxi Suprima 60 Fault codes & diagnostics

129 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Regular Natural Gas 17.6 kW 1999-2010 Discontinued

Replaced by: Baxi Potterton Assure

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
116 High 7 Medium 6 Low

All 129 documented codes

Tap any card for details

1 green flash

Your boiler is working normally and has simply reached the correct temperature to heat your home or water.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is a normal operating status.
  2. The light will stop flashing once the boiler needs to fire up again to maintain heat.
  3. If your radiators are cold, check that your room thermostat is turned up.
1 red flash

Your boiler has detected that it is getting too hot or that water isn't moving through the system properly, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are open
  2. Ensure your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Press the reset button once the boiler has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Temperature NTC Sensor
  • Circulation Pump
  • PCB (Control Board)

Related codes

2 red flashes

Your boiler has become too hot and has automatically shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Wait 30 minutes for the boiler to cool down fully.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open and there are no obstructions to airflow.
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the front control panel firmly to restart the unit.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

3 green flashes

Your boiler is temporarily losing its flame and is currently attempting to fix the issue itself.

Medium DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that other gas appliances (like a gas hob) are working to ensure gas supply
  2. Monitor the boiler to see if it clears the fault and resumes operation
  3. If the fault persists and turns to a red light, attempt a single reset via the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • PCB (Control Board)
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

3 red flashes

Your boiler is failing to light the gas flame after several attempts, which means it will stay locked out to keep you safe.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active by testing another gas appliance like a hob
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least five seconds
  3. Ensure your system pressure is at the correct level if a gauge is visible

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

4 green flashes

Your boiler is having a temporary 'handshake' problem between its internal electronics which should resolve itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to self-reset as this is often a temporary glitch
  2. If the light continues flashing, turn the power to the boiler off and back on at the main fused spur switch
  3. Monitor the boiler to see if the fault frequently recurs

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Knob/User Interface
5 green flashes

Your boiler has experienced a brief glitch in its internal electronic settings and is currently trying to fix itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-350

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to automatically reset itself
  2. If the flashing continues, turn the temperature control knob to 'Reset' for 5 seconds and then back to your desired setting
  3. Ensure there are no external power surges by checking if other appliances are affected

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
5 red flashes

Your boiler's internal memory chip has failed or lost its settings, meaning the unit can no longer communicate with its own control board.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Parameter Storage Unit (PSU)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

6 green flashes

Your boiler has encountered a minor temporary glitch and is currently trying to reset itself automatically.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its self-reset process
  2. If the flashing continues for more than 15 minutes, turn the control knob to 'Reset' and then back to the desired setting
  3. Ensure there is power to the boiler and that the gas supply is active

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 129
6 red flashes

Your boiler has encountered an internal electronic error that is preventing it from starting up correctly.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition Lead
FLASH FLASH ON

Your boiler's internal fan is failing to start or run correctly, which means the system cannot safely clear away waste gases and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air Pressure Switch

Related codes

FLASH OFF ON

Your boiler has become too hot and has automatically shut down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to cool down for at least 30 minutes.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open and there is no air trapped in the system.
  3. Press the reset button once to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • PCB (Control Board)
FLASH ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical error and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £240-£380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring Harness
FLASH ON ON

Your boiler’s internal control board has suffered a critical failure and can no longer safely operate the system.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Ignition Lead

Related codes

ON FLASH FLASH

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system or has detected it is heating up too quickly without enough water inside.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves and boiler isolation valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your system pressure is topped up to between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  4. Press the reset button once the system has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Flow/Return Thermistor

Related codes

ON FLASH ON

Your boiler has detected a problem with its internal temperature sensors and has stopped working to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Thermistor
  • Control Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

ON OFF FLASH

Your boiler has detected an electrical wiring issue where the power supply wires are connected the wrong way around, preventing it from starting for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • External electrical spurs or sockets
ON ON FLASH

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • PCB Ignition Kit
110

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Switch off the boiler and allow it to cool down completely.
  2. Use a radiator key to bleed any trapped air from all radiators in your home.
  3. Check that your system pressure is correct and press the reset button on the boiler control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)

Related codes

117

Your boiler has too much water in the system, causing the pressure to rise above a safe level.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the external filling loop is tightly closed and not passing water
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to lower the system pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge until it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  4. Reset the boiler once the pressure is within the correct range

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Filling Loop
  • Pressure Relief Valve

Related codes

118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with two valves under the boiler)
  2. Slowly open both valves to let water into the system
  3. Close the valves tightly when the pressure gauge reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

119

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water pressure in the central heating system.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the flexible filling loop usually found under or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the small valves on the loop until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once it reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure sensor
  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

125

Your boiler is overheating because the water inside it is not moving around the system correctly.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check if the water pressure on the system gauge has dropped too low
  3. Ensure there is no trapped air by bleeding your radiators

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Flow/Return thermistors

Related codes

127

Your boiler has failed to heat the water in your cylinder to a high enough temperature to kill off potentially harmful bacteria.

Medium Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Cylinder NTC Sensor
  • PCB
  • Immersion Heater

Related codes

128

Your boiler started to heat up but the flame went out unexpectedly while it was running.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit if you use a prepaid top-up card
  2. Ensure other gas appliances in your home, like a cooker, are working correctly
  3. Press the reset button firmly to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

133

Your boiler has tried to light several times but has been unable to sustain a flame, meaning your heating and hot water will not work.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active by testing another gas appliance like a hob
  2. Check if your condensate pipe (outside) is frozen if the weather is very cold
  3. Press the Reset button once to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

153

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered an error that requires a manual restart, or it has been reset too many times in a short period.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 seconds
  3. Wait for the boiler to cycle through its startup sequence

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

160

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that safely pushes waste gases out of the flue is not spinning at the correct speed or has failed.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 129
162

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot confirm that the fan is safely clearing waste gases from the system.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Fan Assembly
  • Venturi Tube

Related codes

164

Your boiler has detected an issue with how the water is circulating or a sensor fault, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Switch
  • Water Pressure Sensor
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

166

Your boiler has detected an issue with how it clears waste gases, preventing it from firing up safely.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Pipe
  • Fan Assembly

Related codes

270

Your boiler has detected that it is firing without enough water inside it, which causes it to overheat rapidly to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your system water pressure is too low (below 1 bar) and top it up using the filling loop
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open to allow water to flow
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets
  4. Press the reset button once the system is cool

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Main PCB

Related codes

432

Your boiler has lost its electrical ground connection, causing the system to shut down safely to prevent an electrical fault.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Wiring Harness
  • Earth Bonding Cable

Related codes

433

Your boiler has switched itself off because the water inside the main heating unit has become dangerously hot.

High Engineer only £150-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Thermistor (NTC sensor)
  • Main PCB
E.00 – .04

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot properly detect the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness
E.00 – .05

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly read the temperature of the water coming back into the system due to a faulty or disconnected sensor.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return Water Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness
E.01 – .02

Your boiler has stopped working because it thinks the water returning to the unit is hotter than the water leaving it, which usually indicates a sensor error or a problem with water circulation.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Central heating pump
E.01 – .04

Your boiler is repeatedly losing its flame during operation, which has caused the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is fully open
  2. Check if other gas appliances (like a cooker) are working to confirm gas supply
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame rectification electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
Showing 41–50 of 129
E.01 – .11

Your boiler's fan is not spinning at the correct speed to safely clear exhaust fumes, possibly due to a blockage, high winds, or a mechanical failure.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Main PCB
E.01 – .12

Your boiler has detected that water is flowing the wrong way or overheating internally, causing it to lock out for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel.
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 seconds until the status light changes.
  3. Ensure all radiator valves are open and your pump is running if accessible.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow and Return NTC Sensors
  • Circulation Pump
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.01 – .17

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not moving through the system or an internal sensor has lost its connection.

High DIY-safe £120-300

What to check first

  1. Press and hold the reset button for at least five seconds.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open and not blocked.
  3. Check that your external pump is running if it is accessible.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Thermistor (Temperature Sensor)
  • Circulation Pump
  • Wiring Loom
E.01 – .20

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot inside, usually due to water not flowing through the system correctly or a faulty sensor.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your system water pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Reset the boiler using the reset button or dial

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flue gas NTC sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger
E.02 – .00

Your boiler is simply acknowledging that the reset button has been pressed and is now attempting to restart its normal operation.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its internal self-check.
  2. Monitor the display to see if a permanent fault code appears after the reset cycle.
  3. Ensure your thermostat is calling for heat to allow the boiler to fire up.
E.02 – .07

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water in the system to operate safely, causing it to shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £60-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose with two small taps.
  2. Slowly open both taps until you hear water flowing and the pressure gauge rises to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close both taps tightly and press the 'Reset' button on the boiler control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor
E.02 – .16

Your boiler’s internal computer has suffered a critical failure or a communication timeout and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness
E.02 – .17

Your boiler is failing to start because its internal computer and gas control system are no longer talking to each other.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness
E.02 – .19

Your boiler’s internal control board has detected a configuration setting change that is preventing it from running correctly.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • PCB Jumper Link
E.02 – .20

Your boiler's main control board has detected an internal configuration setting error, meaning the system may not know exactly how it should be operating.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Jumper Link
Showing 51–60 of 129
E.02 – .21

Your boiler's main control board has detected a configuration setting error, likely caused by a component failure or an incorrect setting within the internal computer.

High Engineer only £180-320

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Control Board Jumper
E.02 – .47

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with external controls like your thermostat or timer due to a wiring issue.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Programmer
  • Thermostat
  • Wiring Harness
E.02 – .48

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with your thermostat or wireless control system.

Medium DIY-safe £60-180

What to check first

  1. Check if your wireless thermostat has run out of batteries and replace them if necessary.
  2. Ensure the thermostat is within range of the boiler and has not been moved too far away.
  3. Try resetting your router or the wireless receiver box attached to the boiler.
  4. Follow your thermostat's manual to re-pair or 're-bind' the device to the boiler receiver.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Wireless Thermostat
  • RF Receiver Unit
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.04 – .00

Your boiler has lost its connection to the component that controls the fuel supply, meaning it cannot safely ignite to provide heat or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring Harness
E.04 – .01

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit, usually due to a faulty internal sensor or a wiring problem.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness Connector

Related codes

E.04 – .02

Your boiler has stopped working because it can no longer accurately measure the temperature of the water moving through the system.

High Engineer only £100-£180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main Control Board
E.04 – .03

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot too quickly, usually because the water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your pump is running and hasn't seized
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and internal bypass valves are open
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Flow temperature sensor
E.04 – .04

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors exhaust gases, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.04 – .05

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors exhaust gases, and it has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Overheat Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E.04 – .06

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot inside, often due to water not moving through the system or a safety sensor failing.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger
Showing 61–70 of 129
E.04 – .08

Your boiler has overheated or detected a circulation issue, causing it to shut down for safety to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are open and not turned off.
  2. Ensure your system pressure is at the correct level (usually between 1.0 and 1.5 bar).
  3. Allow the boiler to cool down and try pressing the reset button.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Temperature Sensor (Thermistor)
  • Circulation Pump
E.04 – .10

Your boiler is unable to ignite its flame, meaning it cannot provide heating or hot water for your home.

High DIY-safe £150-450

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas meter has credit and that the gas supply valve is open
  2. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker or hob, are working correctly
  3. Press the reset button once to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Control Board)
E.04 – .12

Your boiler thinks a flame is burning when it shouldn't be, causing the system to lock out for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Burner assembly
E.04 – .13

Your boiler's fan, which safely pushes exhaust gases out of your home, has stopped spinning or is broken, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £220-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB
E.04 – .17

Your boiler has detected a internal hardware failure within its gas control system and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas/Air Unit
E0

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot accurately measure the temperature of the water inside the system.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC thermistor (temperature sensor)
  • Wiring harness
  • Control board (PCB)

Related codes

E1

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Turn off the boiler and allow it to cool down completely.
  2. Bleed all radiators using a radiator key to remove trapped air.
  3. Check that your system pressure is at the correct level (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar).
  4. Press the reset button on the boiler control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulating Pump
  • Thermistor (NTC Sensor)

Related codes

E2

Your boiler has stopped because the water isn't moving through the pipes correctly, likely caused by trapped air or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Turn off the heating and let the radiators cool down.
  2. Use a radiator key to bleed any trapped air from all radiators.
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it has dropped.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Auto air vent
  • Flow/Return thermistor

Related codes

E3

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer control the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £280-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

E4

Your boiler is struggling to light because there might be trapped air in the system or a problem with the gas supply.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is in the 'on' position
  2. Bleed your radiators using a radiator key to remove trapped air
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 71–80 of 129
E09

Your boiler is unable to communicate with its gas valve, meaning it cannot ignite safely to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve wiring harness
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
E10

Your boiler has lost communication with its outdoor temperature sensor, which helps it adjust the heating based on the weather outside.

Low Engineer only £100-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor temperature sensor
  • External wiring/cabling

Related codes

E12

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system properly, so it has shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the external pump is running and hasn't seized
  3. Check for any obvious leaks that may have caused an air lock

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Circulation Pump
  • Flow Switch
  • PCB (System Control Board)

Related codes

E13

Your boiler has detected that water is still circulating or a sensor is stuck when it should be at rest, preventing it from starting safely.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Differential pressure switch
  • Circulating pump
  • Water flow sensor

Related codes

E15

Your boiler's electronic control board is struggling to communicate with the valve that controls the gas supply, meaning it cannot ignite safely.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E20

Your boiler has lost its ability to accurately measure the temperature of the water used for your radiators, causing it to stop running for safety.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness
  • PCB

Related codes

E28

Your boiler has detected a problem with how it disposes of waste gases, which could be caused by a sensor fault or a blockage in the drainage or exhaust pipes.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Condensate Trap

Related codes

E40

Your boiler has detected a sensor failure that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit, causing the system to stop working for safety.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating Return NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E50

Your boiler is struggling to accurately measure the temperature of your hot water, which typically prevents the system from heating it safely.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E53

Your boiler is not getting enough air to burn gas safely, which often means the external exhaust pipe is obstructed or there is an issue with the ventilation fan.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check the plastic flue pipe on the outside wall of your home for any obstructions like bird nests, leaves, or debris.
  2. Ensure any external vents or air bricks near the boiler are not covered or blocked.
  3. Try resetting the boiler once the external flue is confirmed to be clear.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Flue seals
Showing 81–90 of 129
E54

Your boiler is struggling to detect when you turn on your hot taps, which means your water may not get hot or could fluctuate in temperature.

Medium Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Flow Sensor
  • Flow Turbine
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E55

Your boiler’s internal computer has lost its timing settings and needs to be professionally synchronised with the gas valve to operate safely.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

E78

Your boiler is unable to accurately measure the water pressure inside the system, which is preventing it from heating your home safely.

High Engineer only £140-£260

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E83/E84/E85/E86/E87

Your boiler's internal computer parts are having trouble talking to each other, meaning the system cannot receive the signals it needs to start up.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Communication Cable/Wiring Harness
  • Interface Board

Related codes

E92

Your boiler has failed an internal safety check while trying to automatically adjust its flame, causing it to shut down to prevent inefficient or unsafe burning.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Probe
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

E100

Your boiler's internal computer brain is struggling to keep time or communicate properly with its internal clock.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • User Interface/Control Board

Related codes

E109

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system properly, which is causing it to stop to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • System filter (cleaning)
  • Flow/Return thermistors

Related codes

E110

Your boiler has become too hot and has automatically shut down to prevent damage or safety issues.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Allow the boiler to cool down for at least 20 minutes
  2. Check that your radiator valves are open and not blocked
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the front control panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Thermistor

Related codes

E117

Your boiler has detected that there is too much water pressure in the system, which can prevent it from running safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the radiator bleed valve on any radiator.
  2. Use a radiator key to slowly release water into a container until the pressure gauge on the boiler drops to between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Ensure the filling loop valves are fully closed so no more water enters the system.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

E118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the central heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is a flexible silver pipe usually found beneath the boiler or near your cylinder.
  2. Slowly open both small valves on the filling loop until you hear water flowing into the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close both valves tightly once the needle reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Showing 91–100 of 129
E119

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low and needs to be topped up.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with two valves underneath the boiler)
  2. Slowly open both valves until you hear water flowing and the pressure gauge needle moves
  3. Close both valves tightly when the needle reaches 1.5 bar, then restart the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Water pressure switch
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

E125

Your boiler is struggling to move hot water around the system, which is usually caused by a blockage or a pump that has stopped working.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Automatic Air Vent
  • Diverter Valve

Related codes

E128

Your boiler is repeatedly losing its flame during operation and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

E129

Your boiler is struggling to keep a steady flame lit and has failed to automatically adjust itself after several attempts.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

E130

Your boiler has shut down because a sensor has detected that the exhaust gases are getting too hot or the sensor itself has failed.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger cleaning
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E131

Your boiler has switched itself off because the exhaust gases have reached a temperature that is too high, often caused by a circulation problem or a blockage.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Exchanger
  • Flue Thermistor
  • Pump

Related codes

E133

Your boiler is not receiving a steady gas supply or is struggling to light and maintain a flame.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas meter has credit (if using a pre-payment meter).
  2. Ensure the gas emergency control valve is in the open position.
  3. Attempt to reset the boiler by pressing the reset button for five seconds.
  4. If it is freezing outside, check that the white plastic condensate pipe has not frozen.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Lead
  • Electrode
  • PCB

Related codes

E134

Your boiler has failed to light several times in a row and has locked itself out for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit and the isolation valve is open
  2. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a cooker, are working
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the front of the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E135

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect a steady flow of gas or it has lost its flame during operation.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Ignition electrodes

Related codes

E154

Your boiler has detected that the water temperature readings are inconsistent, suggesting the water isn't moving through the system correctly or a sensor is faulty.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump

Related codes

Showing 101–110 of 129
E160

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan, which safely removes waste gases, is not spinning correctly or cannot communicate with the main control board.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Extraction Fan
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Fan Wiring Harness

Related codes

E160 / E161

Your boiler has detected a problem with the fan that pushes exhaust gases out of the flue, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E163

Your boiler has lost its connection to the hot water temperature sensor, which means the system cannot safely tell how hot the water is.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Control Board

Related codes

E164

Your boiler is having trouble measuring its internal water pressure and has stopped working as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Pressure switch wiring harness

Related codes

E167

Your boiler's electronic brains have developed a fault and can no longer communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £240-380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E168

Your boiler's internal computer brain is confused or malfunctioning, preventing the system from starting its normal cycle.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness
  • External power supply/Surge protector

Related codes

E193

Your boiler has detected that water is not circulating correctly through the system before the burner ignites.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that the main cooling valves and radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check the central heating pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Gently bleed air from your radiators using a radiator key

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Pump Lead

Related codes

E270

Your boiler is overheating because it doesn't have enough water circulating through it to safely carry the heat away.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your system water pressure is too low and top it up using the filling loop
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are open and not stuck shut
  3. Gently bleed any trapped air from your radiators

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Internal bypass valve
  • Flow and return thermistors

Related codes

E317

Your boiler has detected that the electricity supply coming into your home is at the wrong frequency, causing the system to lock out for safety.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Voltage Regulator
E321

Your boiler is unable to heat your water because the sensor responsible for monitoring the temperature has developed a fault.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 111–120 of 129
E384

Your boiler thinks it sees a flame even though it hasn't finished its startup sequence yet, so it has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

E385

Your boiler is not receiving enough electrical power to operate correctly, or it cannot detect the incoming voltage.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Check if other appliances in your home are working to rule out a power cut
  2. Ensure the boiler's fused spur switch is fully turned on
  3. Reset the boiler using the reset button on the control panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External Voltage Stabiliser

Related codes

E430

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low to operate safely and is currently performing a check to see if it can recover.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on your boiler or central heating system.
  2. If the pressure is below 1.0 bar, locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose with small valves).
  3. Slowly open the valves to top up the water pressure until the gauge reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Water pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

H.01 – .00

Your boiler has lost its internal connection to the gas control system, meaning it cannot safely ignite to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

H.01 – .05

Your boiler is overheating because water isn't moving through the system quickly enough or a sensor is giving a false reading.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the control knob to 'R' and back to the desired setting

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensors
  • Main PCB
H.01 – .08

Your boiler is overheating or water is not moving through the system fast enough to stay at a safe temperature.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Restart the boiler using the reset button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

H.01 – .14

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot too quickly, usually because water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system (check the gauge)
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air
  4. Restart the boiler once it has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Flow switch

Related codes

H.01 – .18

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system, which is causing it to overheat and shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the central heating pump is not making a loud grinding or humming noise
  3. Check that the system pressure is at the correct level (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar)

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensors (NTC Thermistors)
  • Main PCB
H.01 – .21

Your boiler is overheating because water isn't moving through the system quickly enough when heating your water.

Medium DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your external pump is running and hasn't seized
  2. Ensure all isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Check that your cylinder thermostat is not set to an unusually high temperature

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Diverter Valve Actuator
H.02 – .02

Your boiler's internal computer brain hasn't been programmed correctly or has forgotten its setup settings, meaning it doesn't know how to run properly.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Configuration Plug
Showing 121–129 of 129
H.02 – .03

Your boiler's control board is currently confused by its own internal configuration settings and cannot tell the system how to operate.

High Engineer only £180-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Configuration Key
H.02 – .04

Your boiler's computer brain has become temporarily confused by its internal settings and cannot operate correctly.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the front control panel.
  2. Press and hold the reset button for at least 5 seconds.
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its restart sequence.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Display Interface
H.02 – .06

Your boiler has detected low water pressure, which means there is not enough water in the system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check your central heating pipes and radiators for any visible leaks
  2. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with small valves)
  3. Slowly open the valves to top up the pressure until the gauge reads between 1 and 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve
H.03 -.00

Your boiler is having trouble 'talking' to its internal temperature sensors, which is causing it to stop running for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£240

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
H.03 – .01

Your boiler's main internal computer has lost communication with its control panel, meaning it can no longer send or receive instructions to heat your home.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Interface Cable
  • Control Board

Related codes

H.03 – .02

Your boiler has lost its flame while it was running, meaning it has temporarily stopped working to ensure your safety.

High DIY-safe £125-£280

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances (like a hob) are working to ensure your gas supply is active
  2. Press the Reset button on the control panel once
  3. Ensure your condensate pipe has not frozen if it is a cold winter day

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead
OFF OFF OFF

Your boiler has lost power completely and and the control panel is unresponsive.

High DIY-safe £90-350

What to check first

  1. Check that the boiler's main power switch is turned on
  2. Inspect your home's consumer unit (fuse box) for any tripped circuit breakers
  3. Check the 3-amp fuse in the fused spur switch located near the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • External 3A Fuse
  • Wiring harness
ON OFF ON

Your boiler has tried to light several times but has failed to detect a flame, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is turned on (check other gas appliances like a hob)
  2. Press the 'Reset' button on the front control panel for at least 2 seconds
  3. Ensure the condensate pipe (if visible outside) isn't frozen in cold weather

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Gas Valve
ON ON ON

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical communication problem that is preventing it from firing up.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Low Voltage Wiring Harness
  • External Ignition Lead