Grant Vortex Blue Fault codes & diagnostics

41 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

OilSystem Oil 15-36 kW 2016-present
GC Numbers 41-311-7341-311-7441-311-7541-311-7641-311-7741-311-7841-311-7941-311-8041-311-8141-311-8241-311-83

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
2 Emergency 36 High 3 Low

All 41 documented codes

Tap any card for details

Green blinking light

Your boiler is struggling to burn fuel correctly because the balance of air is incorrect or a sensor is faulty.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil nozzle
  • Burner motor
  • Photocell
  • Blast tube
Red blinking light

Your boiler's safety sensor thinks there is a fire inside before it has even started, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell (Flame sensor)
  • Oil pump solenoid
  • Burner control box
Boiler controls

Your boiler appears to have no power reaching the control panel, meaning the system is switched off or disconnected from the electricity supply.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Ensure the main boiler ON/OFF switch is set to the ON position.
  2. Check your home's consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit breaker has tripped.
  3. Verify that the fused spur switch located near the boiler is turned on and the fuse hasn't blown.

Parts commonly replaced

  • 3A Fuse
  • Control PCB
  • On/Off Rocker Switch

Related codes

Burner

Your boiler's burner has shut itself down for safety and needs to be restarted manually.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Locate the burner reset button on the front of the burner unit
  2. Press the illuminated reset button once and release it
  3. Wait to see if the burner fires up and stays running

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell
  • Fuel nozzle
  • Oil pump
  • Control box
Burner lock out

Your boiler's burner has stopped working because a small internal component is failing to give the motor enough power to start.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner motor capacitor
  • Burner motor
Burner pulsates

Your boiler is struggling to breathe properly, causing it to make a rhythmic thumping or vibrating sound as it burns fuel.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil nozzle
  • Blast tube
  • Burner fan motor
  • Air intake snorkel
Burner pulses

Your boiler is struggling to breathe properly, causing the flame to flicker irregularly and the unit to vibrate.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that any external balanced flue terminals are not blocked by leaves, debris, or snow
  2. Ensure any air bricks or ventilation grilles in the room are clean and unobstructed
  3. Reset the boiler once to see if the issue persists

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air damper
  • Oil nozzle
C2849

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal computer systems cannot communicate properly, preventing it from lighting the burner safely.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Blue Flame Controller
  • BBV Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
Demand

Your boiler is working fine but hasn't been told to turn on by your heating controls or timer.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature.
  2. Ensure the central heating and hot water timers are set to 'On' or 'Auto'.
  3. Check if the programmer has been accidentally switched to 'Off' or 'Once'.
  4. Replace the batteries in your wireless room thermostat if the screen is blank.

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Programmer
  • Room Thermostat
  • Thermostat Batteries
DHW pump

Your boiler is struggling to heat your hot water correctly because of a communication issue between its sensors and the internal computer.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Store thermistor
  • Main PCB
  • Wiring harness
Showing 11–20 of 41
E01

Your boiler's main internal computer has encountered a processing error and can no longer safely control the heating system.

High Engineer only £350-£650

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Burner Control Box
EE1

Your boiler has detected too much pressure inside the system because the water isn't moving around properly or there is trapped air.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge and bleed your radiators to release any trapped air.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open.
  3. Restart the boiler once air is removed and pressure is topped up to the correct level.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Automatic Air Vent
  • Expansion Vessel

Related codes

EE2

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water in the system to operate safely, which has caused it to shut down.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the silver braided filling loop usually found underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valve(s) to allow water into the system while watching the pressure gauge.
  3. Close the valve(s) tightly once the gauge reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

EE3

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect its outdoor temperature sensor, likely due to a wiring issue or a faulty component.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring loom
  • PCB

Related codes

EE4

Your boiler has detected that the electrical wiring coming from your home’s power supply is connected the wrong way around.

High Engineer only £80-150

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (if damaged by surge)
  • External wiring connections

Related codes

EE8

Your boiler's internal computer parts are struggling to talk to each other, which prevents the system from starting up or running correctly.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Wiring Loom
  • Display Interface
Flow

Your boiler is not detecting water moving through the system, which is preventing it from firing up to provide hot water.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow switch
  • Flow sensor
  • Diverter valve diaphragm
Flow temperature low

Your boiler is failing to reach the required temperature for heating your home, likely because of a setting issue or a buildup of soot inside the unit.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check the thermostat dial on the boiler control panel and ensure it is turned up to a high enough setting.
  2. Check your room thermostat is calling for heat.
  3. Ensure there is enough oil in your storage tank.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control thermostat
  • Oil nozzle
  • Burner electrodes
Grant Fault

Your boiler has detected a general processing error or a mismatch in the ignition sequence that is preventing it from heating your home.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that you have a sufficient supply of heating oil in your tank.
  2. Ensure the oil supply valve is fully open.
  3. Press the illuminated reset button on the burner once and wait for the restart sequence.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell
  • Oil pump
  • Burner nozzle
  • Control box
Heating system

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in your radiators has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the metal braided filling loop underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valve (or valves) until you hear water flowing and the pressure gauge rises.
  3. Close the valves firmly once the pressure gauge reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
Showing 21–30 of 41
Motor fails to run

Your boiler has no power arriving at the unit, meaning it cannot start the burner to provide heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that the boiler's main on/off switch is set to the ON position and see if the neon light is glowing.
  2. Check your home's consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit breaker has tripped.
  3. Ensure the external fused spur switch (usually near the boiler) is switched on and the fuse inside it hasn't blown.

Parts commonly replaced

  • External fuse
  • On/Off switch
  • Internal wiring terminal
No display

Your boiler has lost power because an internal electrical component has failed, meaning the screen is blank and the heating will not turn on.

High Engineer only £140-£260

Parts commonly replaced

  • 12V Transformer
  • Integrated Control Interface
  • Boiler Fuses
No fuel supply

Your boiler is unable to pull oil from the tank to create a flame, likely because the fuel is low or a valve is closed.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check your oil tank gauge to ensure you haven't run out of fuel.
  2. Verify that the fuel isolation valve on the oil line is in the 'Open' position.
  3. Inspect the external fire valve (usually near the boiler) and ensure it hasn't tripped.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fuel filter element
  • Oil pump
  • Flexible fuel hose
Off

Your boiler's burner has detected light when it should be dark inside, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that the burner cover and all casing panels are securely fitted and not letting in external light.
  2. Inspect the clear plastic viewing window for damage or missing seals.
  3. Press the reset button on the burner control box once all covers are tightened.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell (Flame Sensor)
  • Control Box
  • Burner Gaskets
Oil odours

You can smell heating oil near your boiler, which usually indicates a fuel leak that needs urgent attention to prevent damage or fire risk.

Emergency Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil flexible hose
  • Compression fittings
  • Oil pump seal
  • Nozzle
Oil smells

You have likely developed a leak in your fuel delivery system or burner which is causing a strong smell of heating oil in or around your home.

Emergency Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flexible oil hose
  • Burner nozzle
  • Oil pump seals
  • Supply pipe fittings
OPn

Your boiler has lost connection with a temperature sensor and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
OUTDR

Your boiler is struggling to work out the weather outside because the external temperature sensor has lost its connection or stopped working.

Low Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness
power

Your boiler has lost electrical power and cannot operate, which is usually caused by a switched-off breaker or a simple blown fuse.

High DIY-safe £0-90

What to check first

  1. Check that the main boiler isolation switch (usually a wall switch near the unit) is turned on.
  2. Inspect your home's main consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit breaker has tripped.
  3. Replace the 3-amp fuse in the boiler's power spur switch with a new one.

Parts commonly replaced

  • 3-amp fuse
  • Internal PCB fuse
  • Fused spur switch
Power supply

Your boiler has lost electrical power and cannot start or run any of its functions.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check if the main electrical fuse box (consumer unit) has tripped and flip the switch back up if necessary.
  2. Locate the fused spur switch near the boiler and ensure it is switched to the 'On' position.
  3. Check if other appliances in your home are working to rule out a general power cut.

Parts commonly replaced

  • 3A Fuse
  • Fused Spur Socket
  • Electrical Wiring

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 41
PP1

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly measure the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Inlet (Return) NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness connector
  • Control board

Related codes

PP2

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust gases, and it has likely shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Discharge gas temperature sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

PP3

Your boiler's internal thermometer has stopped working correctly, meaning the system can no longer safely monitor its own temperature to provide heating.

High Engineer only £140-£240

Parts commonly replaced

  • Coil temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

PP4

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly monitor the temperature of the gases leaving the system.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas return sensor
  • Sensor wiring loom

Related codes

PP5

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal thermometer, which checks the temperature of the air around it, has developed a fault.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ambient temperature sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

PP6

Your boiler has sensed that the internal exhaust gases have become too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner nozzle
  • Heat exchanger baffle
  • Discharge gas temperature sensor

Related codes

PP7

Your boiler has detected very cold temperatures and has automatically turned on its built-in safety mode to prevent the internal pipes from freezing.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the cycle to complete naturally as the boiler warms itself up
  2. Ensure any external condensate pipes are properly insulated or 'lagged'
  3. Check that the room thermostat is set to a reasonable minimum temperature

Related codes

Red steady on

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect a flame or is struggling to ignite the fuel properly.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • UV photocell sensor
  • Oil pump solenoid valve
  • Ignition transformer
  • Oil nozzle
sHr

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with its temperature sensors, which means it cannot accurately measure the water flow and has stopped working for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • HP Flow Sensor
  • HP Return Sensor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

SUP

Your boiler's internal thermometer that monitors water temperature is broken or has a loose connection, preventing the system from heating up safely.

High Engineer only £120-£190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Supply NTC thermistor (sensor)
  • Wiring harness / lead set
Showing 41–41 of 41
U2453

Your boiler's electronic control system has encountered a communication error or internal memory fault, likely requiring a professional software reset or control board inspection.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Control Module Interface