Vaillant Atmomax Fault codes & diagnostics

164 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 19-24 kW 2000-2010 Discontinued

Replaced by: Atmotec

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Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 80 High 19 Medium 64 Low

All 164 documented codes

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CONNECTION

Your boiler's internal computer is having trouble talking to its main control board, meaning the system cannot start up or operate.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Internal Wiring Harness
  • Display Interface Board

Related codes

D,11

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with the external pump that moves hot water around your radiators, meaning your heating likely won't work.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • External circulation pump
  • Pump wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

D.0

Your boiler is currently set to run at a lower power than needed, meaning your radiators might take a long time to heat up or may not get as hot as they should.

Low Engineer only £80-120

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Internal wiring harness

Related codes

D.1

Your boiler is currently cooling itself down after providing heating, which is a normal operating status rather than an actual fault.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the timer to finish (usually 2-5 minutes)
  2. Check that your room thermostat is not set too high
  3. Ensure radiator valves are open to allow heat to dissipate

Related codes

D.2

Your boiler has temporarily paused its burner to prevent it from switching on and off too frequently, which helps protect the internal components and improve efficiency.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait approximately 15 to 20 minutes for the countdown to end naturally
  2. Ensure your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  3. Check that your radiator valves are open to allow heat to dissipate

Related codes

D.3

Your boiler is currently showing the temperature of the hot water as it flows through the system, which is a normal status message rather than an error.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if a hot water tap is currently running
  2. Wait for the boiler to finish its current heating cycle
  3. Press the 'i' button to return to the main pressure or temperature display

Related codes

D.4

Your boiler is providing an informational update on the current temperature of its internal warm start feature and is not reporting a fault.

Low DIY-safe
D.5

Your boiler is currently waiting for the water to reach the correct temperature before it begins its next heating cycle.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up
  2. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are open
  3. Wait 10-15 minutes to see if the boiler fires up automatically

Related codes

D.7

Your boiler is displaying an information code rather than a fault, indicating the current target temperature for the pre-heated hot water function.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if the 'Warm Start' feature (pre-heat) is turned on via the right-hand control knob.
  2. Adjust the hot water temperature dial to your preferred setting.
  3. If you wish to save energy, turn the hot water dial fully left until it clicks to disable this feature.

Related codes

D.8

Your boiler is receiving a signal from a remote device, such as a thermostat or timer, telling it to turn on and provide heat.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if your room thermostat is turned up high.
  2. Verify if your heating timer or smart app is set to an 'on' period.
  3. Lower your thermostat to see if the code disappears, confirming the boiler is simply responding to your settings.

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 164
D.9

Your boiler is being told what temperature to run at by an external smart thermostat or control dial, rather than its own internal settings.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Check your external wall thermostat or smartphone app to ensure the heating is turned up.
  2. Ensure any external control dials are not set to zero or 'off'.
  3. Monitor the boiler to see if the message disappears when the room reaches the desired temperature.

Parts commonly replaced

  • External thermostat
  • Smart home interface
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

D.10

Your boiler's internal pump is not circulating water correctly, which means your heating and hot water cannot function.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Internal Pump Cable
  • Main PCB

Related codes

D.12

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with the external pump responsible for heating your hot water cylinder.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Cylinder charging pump
  • Accessory module (VR 40)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

D.13

Your boiler is having trouble circulating hot water around your home due to a potential electrical or mechanical issue with the internal pump.

High Engineer only £220-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water circulation pump
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

D.14

Your boiler is struggling to control the speed of the pump that moves hot water around your pipes and radiators.

Medium Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

D.15

Your boiler is struggling to accurately monitor or control the speed of the pump that circulates water through your radiators.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

D.17

Your boiler is sensing that the water returning from your radiators is too hot, causing it to switch from a high-power mode to a low-power maintenance mode.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Open all radiator valves (TRVs) to their highest setting to ensure maximum water flow.
  2. Check that the internal boiler bypass valve is not restricted.
  3. Ensure the central heating system has been properly bled to remove trapped air.

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • Return pipe temperature sensor (NTC)

Related codes

D.18

Your boiler is currently set to run the internal pump continuously rather than only when needed for heating or hot water.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Navigate to the installer level settings (D.18) using the 'i' and '+' buttons.
  2. Check if the value is set to '1' (Continuous) or '0' (Automatic/Intermittent).
  3. Change the value back to '0' if you prefer the pump to stop when there is no demand for heat.

Related codes

D.19

Your boiler is currently switching between different pump speeds to manage the flow of water through your heating system.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Monitor the boiler to see if the status code clears during normal operation
  3. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar

Related codes

D.20

Your boiler is notifying you that the hot water cylinder has reached its maximum temperature setting and is waiting to cool down.

Low DIY-safe £0-90

What to check first

  1. Check the hot water temperature settings on your control panel to ensure they aren't set too high
  2. Monitor the boiler to see if the central heating and hot water continue to operate normally once the temperature drops
  3. If the code persists, try resetting the boiler once

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Settings adjustment)
  • NTC Temperature Sensor

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 164
D.22

Your boiler is letting you know that a hot water tap is currently turned on or being requested.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check all hot water taps in the property are fully closed
  2. Ensure any mixer showers are turned off completely
  3. Check for any leaking hot water pipes or dripping taps
D.23

Your boiler is currently set to summer mode, which means it will provide hot water but has temporarily disabled the central heating.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the temperature control knob for the heating circuit on the front panel.
  2. Turn the dial clockwise away from the 'Sun' icon or leftmost position to your desired temperature setting.
  3. Check if the radiators begin to warm up after a few minutes.

Related codes

D.24

Your boiler's internal water pressure is too low for the system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop valves underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open both taps until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Close the taps once the pressure gauge reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

D.25

Your boiler is currently heating your hot water because it has received a signal from your external thermostat or controller.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check your thermostat settings to see if hot water is scheduled to be on
  2. Lower the hot water temperature on your external control to see if the code disappears
  3. No action is required if your hot water is working as intended

Related codes

D.26

Your boiler's electronic control board is having trouble communicating with an internal switch that manages external components like a pump or valve.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Additional Relay Module

Related codes

D.27

Your boiler's internal control board is having trouble communicating with an electrical switch that operates your heating or hot water components.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Accessory Relay Module

Related codes

D.28

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with an external control or component connected to its secondary switch relay.

Medium Engineer only £100-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • External relay module
  • Main PCB
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

D.30

Your boiler's main control board is currently unable to communicate with the gas valves that provide fuel for the flame.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas Valve Wiring Harness

Related codes

D.33

Your boiler's fan is not reaching the correct speed required to safely clear exhaust fumes, meaning the system cannot start its ignition sequence.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • PCB

Related codes

D.34

Your boiler is struggling to monitor or control the speed of its fan, which is preventing it from safely clearing away waste gases.

High Engineer only £200-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan motor
  • Hall-effect sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 164
D.35

Your boiler is struggling to bring the heating up to temperature, likely because there is air trapped in the system or the water pressure is too low.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar using the filling loop
  2. Bleed all radiators in the house to release trapped air
  3. Once bled and topped up, restart the boiler

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Auto-air vent

Related codes

D.36

Your boiler is struggling to detect when you turn on a hot tap, meaning you might have inconsistent or no hot water.

Medium Engineer only £120-210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water flow sensor
  • Aqua sensor turbine
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

D.40

Your boiler is currently showing you what temperature it is aiming to reach rather than a specific fault code.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if your thermostat is set too high or too low
  2. Monitor the display to see if it changes to a standard temperature reading
  3. No action is required as this is an information status rather than a breakdown

Related codes

D.41

Your boiler is displaying the current temperature of the water returning from your radiators to help you monitor its performance.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is an informational status code, not a fault
  2. Press the 'i' button to exit the information menu if you wish to see the system pressure
  3. Monitor the temperature reading to ensure your radiators are heating up as expected

Related codes

D.44

Your boiler is having trouble detecting the flame properly, which prevents it from firing up safely to provide heating and hot water.

High Engineer only £120-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • PCB

Related codes

D.47

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with the outdoor temperature sensor that helps it adjust to the weather.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • External weather compensator sensor
  • Sensor wiring

Related codes

D.50

Your boiler is providing a diagnostic message about an internal fan speed setting rather than a breakdown code, often appearing during initial setup or after maintenance.

Low Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

D.51

Your boiler's fan speed is slightly out of its normal operating range, meaning the system is struggling to regulate the air and gas mixture correctly.

Medium Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Venturi tube

Related codes

D.58

Your boiler is currently taking advantage of heat from your solar panels to help warm up your water, which is a normal energy-saving function.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is an advisory status message rather than a fault.
  2. Monitor the display to see if the code disappears once solar heating is complete.
  3. Continue to use your hot water as normal.

Related codes

D.60

Your boiler has switched itself off several times because it reached an unsafe internal temperature, likely due to a circulation problem.

Medium Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pump
  • Heat Exchanger
  • NTC Thermistor

Related codes

Showing 41–50 of 164
D.61

Your boiler has recorded several failed attempts to start up and is now preventing the system from running to protect itself from damage.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Ignition electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

D.64

Your boiler is struggling to light consistently, meaning it is taking longer than usual to ignite the gas and start heating.

Low Engineer only £90-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrodes
  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

D.65

Your boiler is struggling to light its flame properly and is cutting out for safety after trying for too long.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sense electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

D.67

Your boiler is taking a short, programmed break to prevent itself from turning on and off too frequently, which protects the internal components from unnecessary wear.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for 5 to 15 minutes for the countdown to end naturally
  2. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  3. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow heat to circulate

Related codes

D.68

Your boiler is struggling to light the flame on its first try, which often means it is having trouble with its fuel supply or the spark.

Medium DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is fully open
  2. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working correctly
  3. If you have a pre-payment meter, check that you have sufficient credit

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Electrode

Related codes

D.69

Your boiler has tried and failed to light the flame twice in a row, meaning your heating and hot water will not work.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to ensure gas is reaching the property
  2. Check that your gas meter has credit if you use a prepaid meter
  3. Press the reset button (flame symbol with a cross) for one second to attempt a restart

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

D.70

Your boiler is currently stuck in a diagnostic test mode used to check if the internal valve is pointing toward the radiators or the hot water.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Press the 'i' button to exit the information menu
  2. Turn the main power switch off and back on again to reset the display
  3. Wait 15 minutes for the automatic test sequence to complete

Related codes

D.71

Your boiler is currently set to provide its maximum possible heat output, which can cause it to use more energy and might lead to overheating issues.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the heating control knob on the front of the boiler panel.
  2. Turn the knob slightly anti-clockwise to a lower setting.
  3. Check if the display changes to show a specific temperature rather than the maximum setting.

Related codes

D.72

Your boiler is briefly running the pump after heating water to prevent the internal parts from getting too hot.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. No action is typically required as this is often a normal operational status rather than a fault
  2. Ensure your radiator valves are open to allow heat to dissipate
  3. Monitor the display to see if the code clears automatically after a few minutes

Parts commonly replaced

  • None
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)

Related codes

D.73

Your boiler is notifying you that it has adjusted its settings to manage how it keeps water warm for quicker delivery to your taps.

Low Engineer only £0-80

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (parameter adjustment)
  • Main PCB (rarely)

Related codes

Showing 51–60 of 164
D.75

Your boiler is taking too long to heat up your hot water cylinder, which usually means there is a problem with the sensor or the water flow between the boiler and the tank.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC temperature sensor
  • Diverter valve
  • External storage cylinder pump

Related codes

D.76

Your boiler is taking a planned short break to prevent itself from turning on and off too frequently, which helps save energy and protect the internal parts.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for 15-30 minutes for the countdown to reach zero
  2. Check that your room thermostat is turned up
  3. Ensure your radiator valves are open to allow heat to dissipate

Related codes

D.77

Your boiler is currently limiting the amount of energy it uses to heat your hot water cylinder, which may result in your water taking longer to warm up.

Low Engineer only £100-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Secondary Heat Exchanger
  • Diverter Valve

Related codes

D.78

Your boiler is limiting the maximum temperature it uses to heat your hot water cylinder, which may mean your water takes longer to heat up or doesn't feel as hot as usual.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the hot water temperature dial or digital setting on the boiler control panel
  2. Ensure the cylinder thermostat (usually found on the side of your water tank) is not set too low
  3. Observe if the fault clears after the water cylinder has reached its target temperature

Parts commonly replaced

  • Cylinder NTC sensor
  • External controller/thermostat

Related codes

D.80

This is not an error code, but an information readout showing the total number of hours your boiler has spent providing central heating.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Press 'i' or the 'back' button to return to the main temperature display
  2. No action is required as this is a normal status message

Related codes

D.81

This is an information code rather than a fault, showing you the total number of hours the boiler has spent heating your water.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is an advisory status message
  2. Press the 'i' button to exit the information menu
  3. Monitor the boiler for any actual fault codes (starting with 'F')

Related codes

D.83

Your boiler is notifying you that it has started a burner cycle specifically to provide hot water, though this may occasionally signal a sensor mismatch.

Low DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that your hot water taps are fully closed
  2. Monitor if the code disappears once the water reaches temperature
  3. Restart the boiler using the reset button to clear the status message

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Diverter Valve

Related codes

D.84

Your boiler is simply reminding you that a routine service is due soon based on the number of operating hours it has completed.

Low DIY-safe £80-£120

What to check first

  1. Check your records to see when the boiler was last serviced
  2. Book a routine service with a Gas Safe registered engineer
  3. Monitor the boiler for normal operation until the engineer arrives

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Maintenance interval reset only)
  • Service gaskets
  • Burner seal

Related codes

D.90

Your boiler is currently communicating with an external room thermostat or digital controller, and this code is simply a status update rather than a mechanical fault.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check your room thermostat is turned up and calling for heat
  2. Ensure the batteries in your wireless thermostat are fresh
  3. Restart the boiler once to refresh the digital connection

Parts commonly replaced

  • Room thermostat
  • Batteries
  • Digital controller interface

Related codes

Showing 61–70 of 164
D.91

Your boiler is checking for an external radio signal to automatically set the time and date using its outside sensor.

Low DIY-safe
D.93

Your boiler has lost its identity settings, meaning it has forgotten exactly which model it is and cannot operate safely until it is reprogrammed.

High Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required (Software reconfiguration)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

D.96

Your boiler is currently resetting its internal software to the original factory settings, often after a control board replacement.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Display Interface

Related codes

D.97

Your boiler has entered a specialist programming mode used by engineers to perform advanced system checks or adjustments.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Press the 'i' button briefly to clear the diagnostic display.
  2. If the boiler is unresponsive, turn the power switch off, wait 30 seconds, and turn it back on.
  3. Avoid pressing and holding both the 'i' and '+' buttons together, as this manual combination activates this mode.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None

Related codes

D.98

Your boiler has detected an internal electronic error that it cannot resolve on its own, stopping it from operating safely.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F.00

Your boiler has lost connection with its internal temperature sensor, preventing it from heating your water safely.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F.00 / F.0

Your boiler has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water leaving the unit, meaning it cannot heat your home safely.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Control PCB

Related codes

F.01

Your boiler has stopped working because a sensor that monitors the temperature of the water leaving the unit has developed an electrical fault.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC Thermistor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

F.1

Your boiler has failed to light because it isn't receiving enough gas or cannot create a spark to ignite the burner.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is in the 'on' position
  2. If you have a prepayment meter, ensure you have sufficient credit
  3. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a hob, are working correctly
  4. Press the reset button (indicated by a flame with a line through it) for one second

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Ignition Lead
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB

Related codes

F.01 / F.1

Your boiler has lost connection with the sensor that monitors water temperature coming back from your radiators, causing it to stop working for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

Showing 71–80 of 164
F.4

Your boiler is failing to light the flame needed to heat your water or radiators.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a cooker, are working to confirm your gas supply is turned on.
  2. Ensure your gas prepayment meter has enough credit.
  3. Press the 'Flame' or 'Reset' button on the boiler control panel for one second to see if it restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrodes
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead

Related codes

F.5

Your boiler has sensed it is getting too hot and has shut down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Safety Cut-out Switch

Related codes

F.6

Your boiler's internal temperature sensor has stopped sending information correctly, meaning the system doesn't know how hot the water is and has shut down as a precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness/terminal block

Related codes

F.10

Your boiler's internal sensor has detected a broken connection, which means it cannot accurately measure the temperature needed to function properly.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F.11

Your boiler has detected a internal blockage that is stopping the water from circulating around your heating system correctly.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Exchanger
  • Circulation Pump
  • Diverter Valve

Related codes

F.12

Your boiler has detected an internal blockage that is preventing water from circulating properly, which could lead to overheating.

High Engineer only £150-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Circulation Pump
  • Pipework linkage

Related codes

F.13

Your boiler has detected an electrical short circuit with the hot water temperature sensor, meaning it cannot correctly monitor the water temperature.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Hot Water Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

F.17

Your boiler has detected an electrical issue where the incoming power wires may be connected in the wrong order or there is an unstable voltage supply.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F.20

Your boiler has become too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Switch the boiler off and allow it to cool for 20 minutes
  2. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow
  3. Press the reset button (flame symbol with a cross) to restart the system

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

F.21

Your boiler has failed to ignite the gas needed to create heat, meaning the system has shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas prepay meter has credit
  2. Ensure other gas appliances in the home are working
  3. Press the 'Reset' button (marked with a flame or cross symbol) for one second

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrodes
  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve

Related codes

Showing 81–90 of 164
F.22

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water pressure in the system to operate safely, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £80-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually two silver braided hoses with small valves) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open both valves until you hear water flowing and the pressure gauge reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close both valves tightly and press the reset button on the boiler control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
  • Circulation pump

Related codes

F.23

Your boiler has shut down because there is a significant temperature difference between the water going out and the water coming back, usually caused by a blockage or a pump failure.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Check the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar and top up if necessary
  3. Gently bleed air from your radiators

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • NTC thermistor sensors
  • Main heat exchanger (de-scaling)

Related codes

F.24

Your boiler is struggling to move water through the system, which is causing it to stop running to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Check if the pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar and top up if low
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water flow
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Water Pressure Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Descaling)

Related codes

F.25

Your boiler has shut down because the exhaust gases are getting too hot, which is a safety precaution to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas thermostat
  • Heat exchanger (cleaning or replacement)
  • NTC sensor

Related codes

F.26

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot properly control the flow of gas needed to stay alight.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Stepping motor
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F.27

Your boiler has detected a flame when there shouldn't be one, which has caused it to shut down for safety purposes.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ionisation Electrode
  • PCB (Control Board)

Related codes

F.28

Your boiler is failing to light because it isn't getting enough gas or the spark that starts the flame is not working correctly.

High DIY-safe £120-£250

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas meter has credit (if on a prepayment meter)
  2. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker, are working to confirm gas supply
  3. Reset the boiler by pressing the flame symbol button for 3 seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead

Related codes

F.29

Your boiler has lost its flame while running and cannot stay lit, meaning your heating and hot water have stopped.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to confirm gas supply.
  2. If you have a prepayment meter, ensure it has sufficient credit.
  3. Press the 'Reset' button (flame symbol with a cross) on the control panel once.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F.32

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that removes flue gases and brings in fresh air is not spinning at the correct speed.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
F.49

Your boiler has lost communication with its smart controls or accessories, likely due to a wiring issue.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Communication wiring
  • Control PCB
  • External thermostat/receiver

Related codes

Showing 91–100 of 164
F.60

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical fault with the control system that manages the gas supply, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £200-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

F.61

Your boiler is unable to safely control the flow of gas required to light the flame, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F.62

Your boiler has detected that the gas valve is not closing properly or is leaking internally, which is a safety concern that prevents the unit from firing up.

Emergency Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F.64

Your boiler's main control computer or internal sensors have detected an electrical communication error and have stopped the system to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

F.65

Your boiler's internal control board has become too hot to operate safely and has shut down to protect itself.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Turn off the boiler at the main power switch.
  2. Wait for 30 minutes to allow the electronic components to cool down naturally.
  3. Ensure there is adequate ventilation around the boiler casing and switch it back on.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F.67

Your boiler's internal computer is receiving a confused signal from the flame sensor, preventing it from safely starting the burner.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Flame Sensing Electrode

Related codes

F.68

Your boiler is struggling to keep a steady flame lit because the gas supply is inconsistent or contains air bubbles.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sense electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead

Related codes

F.70

Your boiler’s control board and display screen are no longer communicating correctly because the internal identity settings have been lost or mismatched.

High Engineer only £100-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • PCB (Main Control Board)
  • Display Interface Board

Related codes

F.71

Your boiler's internal thermometer is stuck on a single reading, meaning the system cannot tell how hot the water is and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

Showing 101–110 of 164
F.72

Your boiler has sensed a conflicting temperature reading between its internal pipes, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC thermistor
  • Return NTC thermistor
  • NTC wiring harness

Related codes

F.73

Your boiler's internal sensor can't accurately tell how much water is in the system, so the unit has shut down to avoid damage.

High Engineer only £130-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F.74

Your boiler has detected an electrical issue with its internal pressure sensor, meaning it cannot accurately tell how much water is in the system.

High Engineer only £130-210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water Pressure Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

F.75

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect the expected rise in water pressure when the internal pump starts up.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge and ensure it is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. If the pressure is too low, use the filling loop to top it up
  3. Reset the boiler to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Circulating pump
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

F.76

Your boiler has shut down because a safety sensor has detected that the internal heat exchanger is getting too hot.

High Engineer only £250-£650

Parts commonly replaced

  • Thermal fuse
  • Primary heat exchanger
  • Overheat thermostat

Related codes

F.77

Your boiler has detected a problem with the pump that removes wastewater or an issue with the flap that prevents gases from flowing back into the system.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Condensate pump
  • Flue non-return flap
  • Control PCB

Related codes

F.78

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with the hot water temperature sensor because of a broken wire or a loose connection.

Medium Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW outlet sensor
  • Wiring loom
  • External controller module

Related codes

F.83

Your boiler has detected that no temperature change is occurring when the burner is lit, which usually means the water is not circulating correctly or the sensors are misreading.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that your system water pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking water flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Flow and Return Thermistor Cable

Related codes

F.84

Your boiler has noticed that its internal temperature sensors are giving conflicting or illogical readings, suggesting they are broken or incorrectly installed.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC sensor
  • Return NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F.85

Your boiler has detected that its temperature sensors are not reading correctly, likely because they have come loose or were installed on the wrong pipes.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Clips

Related codes

Showing 111–120 of 164
P.00

Your boiler is currently running a self-cleaning routine to remove trapped air from the pipes and is not actually reporting a hardware fault.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait approximately 6 to 10 minutes for the program to finish automatically
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to help air escape
  3. Check the pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it has dropped during the process

Related codes

P.01

Your boiler is currently stuck in a special high-performance testing mode and has failed to complete its internal check.

Medium DIY-safe £80-120

What to check first

  1. Press and hold the 'Reset' button (indicated by a flame with a line through it) for five seconds.
  2. Turn the boiler off at the main electrical isolation switch, wait 30 seconds, and turn it back on.
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its startup sequence to see if it returns to normal operation.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Software reset usually required)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

P.02

Your boiler is currently running a special test mode at its lowest power setting to check for performance or stability.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait approximately 15 minutes for the test program to finish automatically
  2. Turn the boiler off and back on again if you wish to cancel the test
  3. Press the 'i' button or the 'Back' button to return to the standard display

Related codes

P.06

Your boiler is currently running a self-diagnostic test to help fill the system with water and remove air pockets.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait approximately 15 minutes for the program to finish automatically
  2. Ensure the radiator valves are open to allow air to circulate out
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge to ensure it stays between 1.0 and 1.5 bar

Related codes

S.00

Your boiler is currently in standby mode because your thermostat or programmer is not telling it to turn the heating on.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Ensure your heating programmer or timer is set to 'On' or 'Auto'
  3. Replace the batteries in your wireless thermostat if the screen is blank

Parts commonly replaced

  • Thermostat batteries
  • External room thermostat
  • Programmer/Timer

Related codes

S.1

Your boiler is unable to start its fan, which is preventing the system from safely beginning the ignition process for heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan motor
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

S.01

Your boiler is currently beginning the process of starting up the fan to clear the system before the heating ignites.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if the heating or hot water starts normally after a few moments
  2. Monitor the display to see if the code changes to a temperature or another 'S' status
  3. No action is required as this is a normal operational status message, not a fault

Related codes

S.2

Your boiler is struggling to circulate water because it has detected a problem with the flow from the pump.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking water flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Automatic Air Vent
  • Pressure Sensor

Related codes

S.3

Your boiler is struggling to light the burner to provide heating, which means your radiators will stay cold.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to confirm gas supply
  2. Ensure your credit meter has sufficient credit
  3. Press and hold the reset button (flame symbol with a cross) for three seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Lead

Related codes

Showing 121–130 of 164
S.03

Your boiler is struggling to light the flame needed for heating.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is turned on and other gas appliances are working
  2. Press the reset button (often a flame symbol with a cross) for one second
  3. Check that your credit or prepayment meter has enough funds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrodes
  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve

Related codes

S.6

Your boiler's fan is running for longer than expected after a heating cycle, preventing the system from restarting properly.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

S.06

Your boiler is struggling to clear leftover gases from the internal system after the heating cycle has finished.

Medium Engineer only £150-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

S.7

Your boiler is staying in a cooling-down phase for longer than expected after the heating has finished.

Low DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system (typically between 1.0 and 1.5 bar)
  3. Restart the boiler to see if the status clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Overrun thermostat
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

S.07

Your boiler is staying in a cooling-down phase for too long after being used because it thinks water is still moving through the pipes when it shouldn't be.

Medium Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Pump
  • Return NTC Sensor

Related codes

S.8

Your boiler is temporarily pausing the heating because it has reached its target temperature and is waiting for a short period before restarting to prevent unnecessary wear.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if your room thermostat is set high enough to call for heat
  2. Wait approximately 10 to 20 minutes for the internal timer to expire
  3. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open

Related codes

S.08

Your boiler is currently taking a temporary planned break to prevent it from turning on and off too frequently, which helps protect the internal components.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the timer (xx minutes) to count down to zero
  2. Ensure your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  3. Check that your radiator valves are open to allow heat to circulate

Related codes

Showing 131–140 of 164
S.11

Your boiler is trying to provide hot water, but the internal fan that clears away waste gases is failing to start up properly.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan motor
  • Air pressure switch
  • Main PCB

Related codes

S.14

Your boiler is failing to start even though you have turned on a hot tap because it cannot detect the air flow needed to run safely.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan
  • Air pressure switch
  • Venting tubes

Related codes

S.16

Your boiler has detected an issue with the fan after it has finished heating your hot water, preventing it from starting the next cycle properly.

High Engineer only £150-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

S.17

Your boiler is struggling to circulate water properly after providing hot water, which is causing it to pause for safety.

Medium Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Diverter valve
  • PCB

Related codes

S.20

Your boiler has received a request to provide hot water, but it is taking longer than expected to start the heating process.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check if any hot water taps have been left slightly open
  2. Ensure your thermostat is calling for heat correctly
  3. Try resetting the boiler by turning the main power dial off and back on

Parts commonly replaced

  • Diverter Valve
  • DHW Flow Sensor

Related codes

S.21

Your boiler is trying to provide hot water, but the internal fan is failing to start up properly to clear the exhaust gases.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

S.22

Your boiler is having trouble circulating hot water because the pump isn't detecting enough water flow or has become stuck.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow sensor
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

S.23

Your boiler is struggling to light properly when you turn on your hot water taps.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • DHW Flow Sensor

Related codes

Showing 141–150 of 164
S.25

Your boiler is currently cooling itself down after providing hot water and will be temporarily unavailable for a few minutes.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for 5 to 10 minutes for the boiler to complete its cooling cycle
  2. Check if the fault clears automatically once the internal temperature drops
  3. Ensure your room thermostat is not set higher than necessary

Related codes

S.26

Your boiler is staying in a cooling-down phase for the hot water system because it thinks the fan or air pressure sensor has not switched off yet.

Medium Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Fan
  • Control board (PCB)

Related codes

S.27

Your boiler is temporarily running its internal pump to cool down the internal components after you have finished using hot water.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is a normal operational status rather than a fault.
  2. Wait a few minutes for the pump symbol to disappear.
  3. Ensure your radiator valves are open to allow heat to dissipate if the boiler is frequently running hot.

Related codes

S.28

Your boiler is temporarily pausing the burner to prevent it from switching on and off too frequently while heating your water.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait up to 15 minutes for the countdown timer to end naturally
  2. Ensure your hot water taps are fully closed
  3. Check that the water pressure gauge is within the green zone (usually 1.0 to 1.5 bar)

Related codes

S.30

Your thermostat has told the boiler not to turn on the heating, likely because it is set too low or has lost connection.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is set to a temperature higher than the current room temperature.
  2. Replace the batteries in your wireless thermostat or programmer if they are low.
  3. Ensure the timer or heating schedule on your central heating controls is set to 'On' or 'Auto'.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Thermostat batteries
  • Room thermostat
  • Wireless receiver

Related codes

S.31

Your boiler is currently set to summer mode, which means it will provide hot water but is intentionally ignoring requests to turn on your central heating.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the heating temperature control knob on the front of the boiler
  2. Turn the knob clockwise away from the 'Sun' icon or leftmost position
  3. Check that your external room thermostat or timer is set to 'On' and calling for heat

Related codes

S.32

Your boiler is temporarily paused because the internal fan isn't spinning at the correct speed to safely clear exhaust fumes.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

S.34

Your boiler has detected that the temperature is too low and has paused itself to prevent the pipework from freezing.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Ensure the room thermostat and radiator valves are turned up to allow water to circulate.
  2. Verify that the boiler's electrical supply is left on to allow the built-in frost protection to run.
  3. Gently warm the area around the boiler or pipes if they are located in a very cold garage or loft.

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • External Frost Thermostat

Related codes

S.36

Your boiler is in a standby mode because it hasn't received a signal from your thermostat to start heating.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature.
  2. Replace the batteries in your wireless thermostat or programmer.
  3. Ensure your heating timer or app is set to an 'On' period.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Thermostat batteries
  • Room thermostat
  • External programmer

Related codes

S.39

Your boiler has paused its operation because a safety sensor has detected that an external component, such as an overflow pump or a temperature limit switch, has been triggered.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check if your condensate pump (if fitted) is plugged in and turned on.
  2. Inspect the discharge pipe from the pump to ensure it isn't blocked or frozen.
  3. Ensure there is no standing water in the pump reservoir causing the safety float switch to trip.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Condensate pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 151–160 of 164
S.40

Your boiler has detected a minor inconsistency in its temperature readings and has entered a restricted performance mode to keep providing some heat while protecting the internal components.

Low DIY-safe £90-220

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the central heating system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Press the reset button (flame symbol with a cross) to clear the status code

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Return Flow Sensor

Related codes

S.41

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too high, often caused by the filling loop being left open or a fault in the expansion system.

Medium DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Check that the silver braided filling loop valves are tightly closed
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a radiator key to reduce the pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge to ensure it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  4. Reset the boiler once the pressure is within the normal range

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Filling Loop Valve
  • Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)

Related codes

S.42

Your boiler has paused operation because a safety flap in the flue system is not opening or closing correctly, preventing waste gases from being safely cleared.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue non-return flap
  • Burner control PCB
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

S.46

Your boiler is struggling to maintain a steady flame when running at its lowest power setting, which may cause it to stop working unexpectedly.

Medium Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Burner

Related codes

S.53

Your boiler has temporarily paused because it cannot sense enough water flowing through the system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler
  2. If the needle is in the red or below 1 bar, use the filling loop valves to top up the pressure to 1.5 bar
  3. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves are fully open
  4. Reset the boiler by pressing the flame symbol with a cross through it

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Main heat exchanger
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

S.54

Your boiler has temporarily paused its heating process because it has detected a sudden rise in temperature and needs time to cool down before restarting.

Medium DIY-safe £90-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure gauge is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar; top up if it is too low.
  3. Check for any air trapped in the system and bleed your radiators if necessary.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow/Return NTC Thermistor
  • Secondary Heat Exchanger

Related codes

S.57

Your boiler is temporarily pausing operation because it has detected a potential issue with the burner flame not settling properly during its warm-up phase.

Medium Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flue gas sensor
  • Gas valve
  • Main PCB

Related codes

S.58

Your boiler is temporarily limiting its power because strong wind or a blockage is interfering with how the burner operates.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the external flue pipe for any obstructions like leaves or debris
  2. Wait for high winds to subside to see if the status clears automatically
  3. Restart the boiler once weather conditions improve

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (usually a status code)
  • Flue terminal

Related codes

S.61

Your boiler has failed an internal test to confirm it is burning the correct type of gas, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Electrode stack

Related codes

S.85

Your boiler is struggling to move enough water through the system, usually due to a blockage, air bubbles, or a problem with the pump.

Medium DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air
  3. Ensure the boiler pressure is topped up to between 1 and 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Auto Air Vent
  • Central Heating Filter

Related codes

Showing 161–164 of 164
S.96

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water coming back from your radiators, preventing it from heating correctly.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Return Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

S.98

Your boiler is temporarily paused because it has detected a mismatch between the temperature sensors and needs to double-check them before starting up.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC sensor
  • Return NTC sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

S.O

Your boiler is in standby mode because it hasn't received a signal from your thermostat to turn the heating on.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Replace the batteries in your wireless thermostat or programmer
  3. Ensure the heating timer or schedule is set to 'On' or 'Auto'

Parts commonly replaced

  • Thermostat batteries
  • External Room Thermostat
  • Receiver Unit

Related codes

S13

Your boiler is struggling to light the flame specifically when you turn on your hot water taps.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sense electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB