Vaillant ecoMAX Pro 28E Fault codes & diagnostics

47 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 28 kW 2000-2005 Discontinued

Replaced by: ecoTEC Pro

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Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 45 High 1 Medium

All 47 documented codes

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F.00

Your boiler has stopped working because it can no longer accurately measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

F.1

Your boiler has failed to ignite and is not producing heat, which is usually due to an interrupted gas supply or a problem with the internal spark system.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker, are working to confirm gas is reaching the property
  2. Ensure your gas meter has credit if you use a pre-payment account
  3. Press the reset button (indicated by a flame with a line through it) and hold for two seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Spark generator
  • Gas valve

Related codes

F.01

Your boiler has stopped working because a sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit has disconnected or failed.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F.4

Your boiler is failing to light the flame properly, which means it cannot heat your radiators or water.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is turned on at the meter
  2. Check if other gas appliances in your home are working correctly
  3. Press the reset button (flame symbol with a cross) for one second

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Lead

Related codes

F.5

Your boiler has got too hot and has automatically shut down for safety to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Turn off the boiler and wait 20 minutes for it to cool down.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and the boiler's isolation valves are fully open.
  3. Locate the reset button (often marked with a flame symbol or 'R') and press it once.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Sensor

Related codes

F.6

Your boiler has stopped working because a sensor that measures the temperature of the water leaving the unit has stopped sending a reliable signal.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F.10

Your boiler has stopped working because an internal temperature sensor has developed an electrical fault and is giving a false reading.

High Engineer only £120-£190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F.11

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the internal pipes correctly, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £180-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the internal boiler valves underneath the unit are in the open position
  3. Check if the pump is making a humming sound, which may indicate it is stuck

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing)
  • Flow/Return thermistor

Related codes

F.12

Your boiler has detected a internal blockage that is preventing water from flowing correctly and affecting the pressure.

High Engineer only £150-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Secondary Heat Exchanger
  • Pump

Related codes

F.13

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low, and it has shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler or under the casing.
  2. Locate the external filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose with small taps).
  3. Open the taps slowly until the pressure needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then close them tightly.
  4. Press the reset button on the boiler control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Boiler pressure sensor
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 47
F.17

Your boiler has detected that the electrical wiring is connected incorrectly or there is a problem with the mains power supply.

High Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • External electrical socket or fused spur

Related codes

F.20

Your boiler has become too hot and has automatically shut down to prevent damage or danger.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open to allow water to flow.
  2. Verify that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge.
  3. Press the 'Reset' button (often a flame symbol with a cross through it) once the boiler has cooled down.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Heat Exchanger (Flushing)

Related codes

F.21

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light the flame or keep it burning properly.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas credit has run out or if other gas appliances in your home are working
  2. Press and hold the reset button (the flame symbol with a cross) for 5 seconds
  3. Wait 15 minutes and try resetting a second time if it fails again

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Lead

Related codes

F.22

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low for it to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the silver braided filling loop hoses underneath or near your boiler
  2. Slowly open the one or two small taps on the filling loop to allow water into the system
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge until it reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then close the taps tightly

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

F.23

Your boiler has detected that water isn't moving through the system fast enough, causing a large temperature gap between the outgoing and incoming pipes.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air
  4. Try resetting the boiler once the system has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow/Return NTC thermistors
  • Internal bypass valve

Related codes

F.24

Your boiler has stopped working because the water isn't circulating properly, likely due to a pump issue or trapped air in the system.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Automatic air vent
  • Pump cable

Related codes

F.25

Your boiler has automatically shut down because the internal temperature of the exhaust gases has reached an unsafe level.

Emergency Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas thermostat
  • Heat exchanger (cleaning/descaling)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F.27

Your boiler thinks a flame is present even when the gas is turned off, which prevents it from starting up safely.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sense electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

F.28

Your boiler has tried to start up several times but cannot establish a flame to begin heating your water.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas meter has credit and the isolation valve is open
  2. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working correctly
  3. Press the 'Flame' or 'Reset' button for one second to restart the sequence

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Spark Leads
  • Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F.29

Your boiler has lost its flame while running and is struggling to relight itself.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is open and you have credit on your gas meter
  2. Press and hold the 'Reset' button (flame symbol with a cross) for one second
  3. Ensure the white plastic condensate pipe leading outside isn't frozen if it is very cold

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Condensate Trap

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 47
F.41

Your boiler has detected a problem with the way it receives gas or a communication failure within its internal control board.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F.42

Your boiler's main control board is struggling to identify which specific model it is due to an electrical communication error.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Coding resistor plug
F.43

Your boiler is struggling to identify its specific model configuration due to an internal electrical communication error.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Coding Resistor
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F.60

Your boiler has detected an electrical communication problem with the internal gas valve, which is preventing it from safely lighting the flame for heating and hot water.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

F.61

Your boiler has detected a communication problem between the main computer and the gas valve, meaning it cannot safely light the flame to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F.62

Your boiler has detected that the gas valve is not closing as quickly as it should, which has caused the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F.63

Your boiler's internal computer brain has developed a memory error and can no longer process the instructions needed to run safely.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F.64

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal computer has detected a fault with its temperature sensors or the main control board.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Control Board)
  • NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F.65

Your boiler's internal control board has become too hot and has shut down the system to prevent any electrical damage.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F.67

Your boiler's control board is receiving an incorrect electrical signal from the flame sensor, meaning it cannot safely confirm if the burner is lit.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 47
F1

Your boiler has tried to start but could not create or detect a flame, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is active by testing another gas appliance like a hob.
  2. Ensure your gas meter has credit if you use a pre-payment meter.
  3. Press the reset button (indicated by a flame with a cross through it) for three seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition lead
  • Electrode set
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

F4

Your boiler has failed to keep the flame lit and has locked itself out for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is turned on and other gas appliances are working.
  2. If you have a pre-payment meter, ensure you have sufficient credit.
  3. Press the Reset button (the flame symbol with a cross) for one second to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
F5

Your boiler has got too hot and stopped working to protect itself, likely because the water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Press the 'Reset' button (flame symbol with a cross) to restart the appliance

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Heat exchanger

Related codes

F6

Your boiler has lost its ability to measure the temperature of the water leaving the unit, usually due to a faulty sensor or a wiring issue.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating flow NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

F10

Your boiler has lost signal from the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating return NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness / connector

Related codes

F11

Your boiler's main internal computer is having trouble communicating with its electronic components, meaning it cannot process instructions to provide heat.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F12

Your boiler's main control panel is having trouble communicating with the internal display or remote controls.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Switch the boiler off at the fused spur power switch
  2. Wait 60 seconds
  3. Switch the power back on to see if the connection resets

Parts commonly replaced

  • User interface display
  • Wiring harness
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

F13

Your boiler's computer brain has encountered a serious communication error and can no longer control the heating system safely.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness
F14

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected that the water inside is getting much too hot, which is usually caused by a circulation problem.

High DIY-safe £150-£450

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.
  2. Ensure your system pressure is topped up to between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge.
  3. Try resetting the boiler to see if the error clears once the water cools down.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • NTC thermistor (Flow sensor)
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

F16

Your boiler thinks it still sees a flame even though it has commanded the burner to turn off, which is a safety concern that prevents it from restarting.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
Showing 41–47 of 47
F17

Your boiler has detected that the electrical supply coming into the unit is currently too low for it to operate safely.

High Engineer only £100-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • External Power Supply Cable

Related codes

F18

Your boiler's control panel has lost communication with the internal system, preventing you from adjusting settings or seeing the boiler's status.

Medium DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Locate the main power switch for the boiler (fused spur).
  2. Turn the power off for 60 seconds.
  3. Turn the power back on to see if the control panel restarts and clears the error.

Parts commonly replaced

  • User interface (display board)
  • Wiring harness
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
F19

Your boiler has lost connection with a temperature sensor, meaning it cannot safely monitor the heat of the water going to your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow/Return NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Sensor Connection Clips

Related codes

F20

Your boiler's internal computer chips are unable to communicate properly due to a software version mismatch.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • User Interface (MMI) Board

Related codes

F24

Your boiler has shut down because the water returning from your radiators has become too hot, usually due to a lack of water flow through the system.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to the highest setting
  2. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove trapped air

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing service)

Related codes

F25

Your boiler is heating up too quickly, causing it to shut down to prevent damage from overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the central heating system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air that might be blocking water flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensors
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Descaling)

Related codes

F26

Your boiler has detected that the water is heating up far too quickly or there is a blockage preventing hot water from flowing out of the unit.

High DIY-safe £150-450

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves and lockdowns are fully open
  2. Check that the external filling loop valves are closed properly
  3. Reset the boiler to see if the error clears once the system has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Bypass Valve
  • Flow/Return NTC Thermistors

Related codes