Worcester Bosch Heatslave Fault codes & diagnostics

151 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

CombiOil Oil 12-25 kW 1989-2005 Discontinued

Replaced by: Heatslave II

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
3 Emergency 119 High 2 Medium 27 Low

All 151 documented codes

Tap any card for details

Fast flash

Your boiler has detected an internal communication or sensing error and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £150-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan
  • Code Plug
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
2 pulses

Your boiler has been left in a maintenance setting intended only for testing, which prevents it from operating normally.

Medium DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Locate the control panel on the front of the boiler.
  2. Find the small 'Service' or 'Mode' switch behind the pull-down cover.
  3. Ensure the switch is moved back to the 'Normal' or 'Minimum' position rather than 'Max'.
5 pulses

Your boiler has been left in a manual testing mode after a recent service or inspection, which is preventing it from running normally.

High DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Locate the service switch panel behind the front flap.
  2. Ensure the central heating and hot water dials are moved off the 'test' or 'max' service positions.
  3. Restart the boiler to see if the pulsing light clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Adjustment only)
  • Control knob

Related codes

9A 361

Your boiler's internal computer parts do not recognise each other and are unable to communicate, preventing the system from starting up.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit
  • KIM (Boiler Identification Module)
  • PCB
9A 362

Your boiler's internal computer chip is either incorrect for this model or has not been properly communicated to the main control board.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Code Plug (HCM)
  • Main PCB
9U 233

Your boiler has lost its internal identity or configuration details due to a component recognition error, which has caused the system to stop working entirely.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Code Plug
  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB
201

Your boiler is currently focused on heating your taps rather than your radiators, which is often a normal part of its operation.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check if any hot water taps are slightly open or dripping
  2. Turn off the 'pre-heat' function if your model has a dedicated eco button
  3. Monitor the display to see if the code clears once hot water demand stops

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Normal operation)
  • Diverter valve
  • DHW temperature sensor

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 151
202

Your boiler is working normally and is simply waiting for a signal from your thermostat to start heating up.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check your room thermostat to ensure it is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Ensure your programmer or timer is set to an 'On' period
  3. Check the batteries in your wireless thermostat or remote control

Related codes

202 O

Your boiler is taking a short, programmed break to prevent itself from turning on and off too frequently, which protects the internal components from unnecessary wear.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Wait 15 to 30 minutes for the countdown timer to finish naturally
  2. Ensure your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  3. Check that at least two radiators have their valves fully open to allow heat to move

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • External central heating pump (if failing)
  • By-pass valve

Related codes

203

Your boiler is currently in standby mode and waiting for a signal from your thermostat or timer to begin heating.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature.
  2. Ensure your heating programmer or timer is set to 'ON'.
  3. Check if your hot water tank is already up to temperature.

Related codes

203 0

Your boiler is working correctly and is simply waiting for you to turn up your thermostat or programmer to request heat.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Ensure your heating programmer or timer is set to an 'ON' period
  3. Check that your thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) are open

Related codes

204

Your boiler has temporarily stopped firing because it is currently hotter than it needs to be to meet your heating or hot water settings.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Wait for the system to cool down naturally for 15-30 minutes
  2. Check that your room thermostat is set to the desired temperature
  3. Ensure at least one or two radiators have their valves fully open to allow heat to dissipate

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Normal operation)
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Thermostatic Radiator Valve (TRV)

Related codes

204 O

Your boiler has stopped running because the water inside the main tank has become hotter than it is supposed to be.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Thermistor
  • Control Board

Related codes

208

Your boiler has been manually set to a testing mode used by engineers to check its performance, which overrides your normal thermostat settings.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the chimney sweep switch or button on the control panel, which usually has a small icon of a chimney or a magnifying glass.
  2. Press and hold the button for at least five seconds until the symbol disappears from the display.
  3. The boiler should return to its normal heating and hot water mode automatically.

Related codes

208 0

Your boiler is currently set to a manual testing mode used by engineers and is not following its normal heating schedule.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the 'Chimney Sweep' button (marked with a small basket or chimney icon) on the control panel.
  2. Press and hold the button for at least 3 to 5 seconds until the display returns to the normal temperature reading.
  3. The 208 code should disappear and the boiler should resume its usual operation.

Related codes

212

Your boiler is heating up much faster than it should and has shut down to prevent the system from overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  2. Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Attempt to reset the boiler using the reset button on the control panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Safety limit thermostat
224 V

Your boiler has shut down because the internal water pressure is too low for it to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the internal filling loop or external valves on the pipework
  2. Slowly open the valves to allow water into the system until the pressure gauge reaches 1.5 bar
  3. Close the valves fully and press the 'Reset' button on the boiler control panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • System pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel repressurisation

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 151
226

Your boiler has recorded that a service tool was plugged in while checking the history of past errors, which is usually just an advisory note for an engineer.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Press the Reset button on the control panel
  2. Switch the boiler power off at the fused spur, wait 30 seconds, and switch it back on
  3. Monitor the display to see if the code clears and the boiler operates normally
227 V

Your boiler is trying to start up but cannot detect a flame, meaning it won't be able to provide any heating or hot water until the issue is resolved.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell
  • Ignition Transformer
  • Burner Control Unit
  • Nozzle

Related codes

228 V

Your boiler thinks it can see a flame even though none should be present, which is causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Air/gas ratio control valve
  • Ignition cable

Related codes

235

Your boiler's internal computer system is having a communication error because its software components are not speaking the same language.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
260

Your boiler has fired up but cannot detect the water getting any hotter, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that the central heating valves under the boiler are fully open
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are turned on
  3. Check your system pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  4. Bleed any trapped air from your radiators

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Primary Heat Exchanger

Related codes

265

Your boiler is temporarily reducing its power because it is producing heat faster than your home can take it away.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow heat flow
  2. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air from the system
  3. Monitor the boiler for a set period to see if it clears once the house warms up
  4. Check the system pressure gauge and top up if it is below 1 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Heat exchanger (cleaning)
  • NTC Thermistor

Related codes

268

Your boiler is currently running a self-diagnostic check of its internal parts, which usually happens during startup or after a reset.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its automatic test (usually 1-3 minutes)
  2. Do not turn the power off or press buttons during the sequence
  3. If the code persists for more than 10 minutes, try a single reset

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (usually a normal process)
  • Main PCB (if stuck in loop)

Related codes

270

Your boiler is operating normally and is simply bumping up its power output to meet a high demand for heating or hot water.

Low DIY-safe
283

Your boiler is currently going through its normal startup routine and is preparing to light the burner.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait up to 2 minutes for the boiler to complete its pre-ignition cycle
  2. Check if heating or hot water starts normally after the code disappears
  3. If the code stays on screen for a long time, try a simple reset

Related codes

284

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal control system has detected an electrical issue with the valve that controls the fuel flow.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Control board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 151
305

Your boiler is currently focused on providing hot water and will resume central heating once the hot water demand is finished.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check if any hot water taps are slightly open or dripping
  2. Ensure 'hot water boost' or constant demand settings are turned off on your programmer
  3. Wait for the hot water tank to reach its set temperature

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Flow Sensor
  • Diverter Valve
  • Hot Water NTC Sensor
305 0

Your boiler is temporarily pausing the hot water heating cycle to prevent the system from overheating or overworking.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for 15-20 minutes for the anti-cycle timer to expire
  2. Ensure hot water taps are fully closed
  3. Check that the internal clock or programmer is not stuck on a constant 'on' setting

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Diverter Valve

Related codes

306 V

Your boiler is still detecting a flame even after it has tried to shut off the fuel supply, which is a safety conflict preventing the system from running.

High Engineer only £220-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil pump solenoid valve
  • Photocell
  • Oil pump
328

Your boiler is struggling with an unstable electrical supply from the house or the main grid, preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Mains voltage stabilizer

Related codes

356

Your boiler is receiving an unstable or insufficient supply of electricity, which is preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £100-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Transformer

Related codes

360

Your boiler's internal computer chips are not communicating correctly or don't match, preventing the system from starting up.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main Control Board (PCB)
360 V

Your boiler's internal computer chips are not communicating properly because they don't recognise each other.

High Engineer only £100-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • HCM Code Plug
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

815 W/B

Your boiler's temperature sensors are detecting an inconsistency, usually meaning a sensor has failed or has been knocked out of place.

High Engineer only £120-210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Low loss header temperature sensor
  • Differential temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

1010 O

Your boiler has lost its internal communication link, meaning the control system cannot send instructions to the heating components.

High Engineer only £90-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • EMS Bus wiring harness
  • Internal fuse
  • Main PCB
1017 W

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low for it to operate safely and it needs filling back up.

High DIY-safe £60-180

What to check first

  1. Locate the internal filling loop or external silver braided hose.
  2. Slowly open the valve(s) until the needle on the pressure gauge reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Turn the valves back to the off position and restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • External Filling Loop
  • Pressure Sensor
  • Auto Air Vent

Related codes

Showing 41–50 of 151
1021 B

Your boiler is unable to tell how hot your water is because a internal sensor is either unplugged or has failed, meaning you likely have no hot water.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
1022 B

Your boiler has lost track of how hot the stored water is, meaning you likely have no hot water or the temperature is inconsistent.

High Engineer only £120-210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water storage temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

1037 W

Your boiler is having trouble communicating with the outdoor sensor that monitors the weather, which may affect how efficiently it balances your heating.

Low Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring
1065 B

Your boiler has lost the ability to monitor its own water pressure, which means it has shut down to prevent any internal damage.

High Engineer only £140-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Pressure sensor wiring harness

Related codes

1068 W

Your boiler is struggling to detect the temperature outside, which means it might not adjust your heating levels correctly for the weather.

Low Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

1073 W

Your boiler's internal thermometer has developed an electrical fault and can no longer accurately measure the temperature of the water inside.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

1074 W

Your boiler has lost communication with its internal thermometer, meaning it cannot tell how hot the water is and has stopped running as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness / connector plug

Related codes

1075 W

Your boiler's internal temperature sensor has stopped working correctly because of an electrical short, meaning the system can no longer safely monitor how hot it is getting.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

1076 W

Your boiler has lost communication with a central temperature sensor, which means it cannot monitor the internal heat and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
  • PCB (Control Board)

Related codes

2920 V

Your boiler is having trouble detecting its own flame, which means it has stopped running as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition transformer
  • PCB

Related codes

Showing 51–60 of 151
2924 V

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal control system isn't communicating correctly with the gas valve that fuels the burner.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

2925 V

Your boiler has lost its connection with the internal gas control valve, preventing it from lighting safely.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness
  • Electronic Control Board (PCB)

Related codes

2927 B

Your boiler has started to fire up but the flame has gone out unexpectedly, meaning the system has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Electrode
  • Burner Control Unit
  • Gas Valve

Related codes

2946 V

Your boiler's internal configuration hardware is either missing, faulty, or has been identified as the wrong version for this specific model.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • HCM Code Plug
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
2948 B

Your boiler is struggling to keep its flame alight, meaning it may stop working or keep restarting to try and stay on.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil nozzle
  • Fuel pump
  • Photocell
  • Ignition electrodes

Related codes

2950 B

Your boiler is failing to light properly and is struggling to detect a flame, causing the heating and hot water to stop working.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sense electrode
  • Ignition leads
  • Oil nozzle
  • Photocell

Related codes

2963 B

Your boiler has detected that a temperature sensor is not communicating properly, meaning the system cannot safely monitor how hot the water is getting.

High Engineer only £95-210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Heat exchanger sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

2964 B

Your boiler is struggling to push water through the heating system quickly enough, which is preventing it from running safely.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  3. Check for any signs of a leak around the pipework or radiators

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow switch
  • Main heat exchanger (de-scaling)

Related codes

2965 B

Your boiler has shut down because the internal water temperature has become too hot and reached a level that isn't safe for the system.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Press the reset button once the system has had 30 minutes to cool down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main heat exchanger (de-scaling)
2966 B

Your boiler is heating up much faster than it should, which usually means the water isn't moving through the system quickly enough to take the heat away.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air that could be blocking water flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing)
  • Flow temperature sensor

Related codes

Showing 61–70 of 151
2967 B

Your boiler has detected that water is heating up too quickly or unevenly between different sensors, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger NTC Sensor
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

2970 B

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in your heating system is dropping too quickly, which usually means there is a leak somewhere or the system needs to be topped up.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Check all radiators and visible pipework for signs of water leaks
  2. Locate the internal or external filling loop and top up the pressure to 1.5 bar
  3. Ensure all radiator bleed valves are tightly closed

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve
  • Filling Loop

Related codes

2971 B

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in the pipes is too low for it to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £120-250

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with one or two small black taps).
  2. Slowly open the tap(s) until you hear water moving and watch the pressure gauge rise.
  3. Close the taps firmly once the needle reaches 1.5 bar, then restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure sensor
  • Pressure sensor wiring harness
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

A1

Your boiler has detected that there isn't enough water moving through the system, which is usually caused by a leak or a pump that has become stuck or worn out.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the fascia and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  2. Look for any visible water leaks under the boiler or around your radiators
  3. Check that all radiator valves and internal isolation valves are fully open

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Auto air vent
  • Internal pipe seals

Related codes

A1 281

Your boiler's pump is unable to move water because it is either physically jammed or there is too much air trapped inside the system.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  2. Bleed all radiators in the house to remove trapped air
  3. Restart the boiler to see if the pump clears itself

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Automatic Air Vent
  • Pump Capacitor

Related codes

A3 317

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the sensor that monitors exhaust gases and has stopped working to prevent potential damage.

High Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
A7

Your boiler's temperature sensor for hot water is broken or has a loose connection, which means the system cannot correctly measure how hot your water is.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Connecting Wiring Harness

Related codes

A8

Your boiler has lost its connection to the external heating controls, meaning it cannot receive instructions on when to turn the heating or hot water on.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • RF Receiver
  • Room Thermostat
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

A8 362

Your boiler is struggling to operate because the electrical power supply to it is unstable or too low, or there is a communication issue with its control chip.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB
  • Voltage Stabiliser
B1

Your boiler's internal computer chip is missing or not making a proper connection, which means the system doesn't know which model it is and has stopped working.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • HCM Code Plug
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 71–80 of 151
B7 257

Your boiler's computer brain has encountered a serious internal error and can no longer communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £350-£580

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Box

Related codes

C1 264

Your boiler has shut down because the internal fan or air supply has stopped working while it was trying to run.

High Engineer only £150-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Main PCB

Related codes

C4 237

Your boiler's internal computer has suffered a critical electrical failure and can no longer control the heating process.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

C4 273

Your boiler's internal computer has noticed the air fan was spinning when it shouldn't have been, causing the system to stop for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure Switch
  • Fan Assembly
  • Control Board (PCB)

Related codes

C6

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan that clears out exhaust gases is spinning too slowly or is not communicating with the system.

High Engineer only £220-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Fan wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
C6 215

Your boiler has detected that the internal fan is spinning at an incorrect speed, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

C6 216

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan that clears away waste fumes is not spinning fast enough.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Control Board (PCB)
  • Venturi Tube

Related codes

C7 214

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan, which safely exhausts waste gases, has failed to start or speed up.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Main Control Board
  • Fan Wiring Harness

Related codes

C7 216

Your boiler has stopped working because the fan that helps remove exhaust gases isn't spinning fast enough to operate safely.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Fan wiring harness
  • Control board (PCB)

Related codes

C7 217

Your boiler has shut down because a built-in safety sensor detected that the internal fan has suddenly stopped pushing out exhaust fumes.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Main PCB
  • Air pressure switch

Related codes

Showing 81–90 of 151
CC 800

Your boiler has lost communication with the sensor that monitors the temperature outside, which may cause your heating to run less efficiently.

Low DIY-safe £90-160

What to check first

  1. Check the outdoor sensor for any obvious physical damage or loose wires
  2. Clear any debris, ice, or vegetation that may be covering the sensor
  3. Restart the boiler to see if the error clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Outdoor weather compensation sensor
  • Sensor wiring
CE 207

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside the system has dropped below the minimum level required to run safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the internal or external filling link (often a silver braided hose or a blue lever under the boiler).
  2. Slowly open the valve(s) to allow water into the system while watching the pressure gauge.
  3. Close the valves tightly once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

CE 266

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal pump that moves hot water around your system has failed a self-test or is stuck.

High Engineer only £220-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Internal bypass valve
  • Main PCB
D1 240

Your boiler has lost track of the temperature of the water returning from your radiators, which usually means a internal sensor has failed or gotten wet.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

D1 241

Your boiler has stopped working because it has lost its connection to the internal sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit.

High Engineer only £100-£190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness
  • Sensor connection clip

Related codes

D3 232

Your boiler has stopped working because an external safety device or thermostat has disconnected the power supply to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £80-180

What to check first

  1. Check if your condensate pump (if fitted) is full or blocked, causing its safety switch to trip.
  2. Ensure your external room thermostat or programmer is turned up and has working batteries.
  3. Reset the boiler by holding the reset button for five seconds once external controls are checked.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Condensate pump
  • External room thermostat
  • Wiring link connector

Related codes

D4 213

Your boiler is overheating because the water inside is heating up faster than it can be moved away, leading to an automatic safety shutdown.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Press the reset button to see if the fault clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Primary heat exchanger
  • Flow temperature sensor

Related codes

D4 271

Your boiler has detected that the water is heating up too quickly or isn't circulating properly, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow
  3. Check if any recently bled radiators have left the system with too little water

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Flow/Return Thermistor
  • Main Heat Exchanger Decal

Related codes

D4 286

Your boiler has shut down because it thinks the internal water temperature has become dangerously hot.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Circulation pump
  • Main PCB

Related codes

D4 341

Your boiler is heating up too quickly and has shut down to prevent overheating, usually because water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £150-450

What to check first

  1. Check that the central heating valves under the boiler are fully open
  2. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to the maximum setting
  3. Check the system pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if it is low
  4. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Primary Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Flushing)

Related codes

Showing 91–100 of 151
E2

Your boiler's internal thermometer that monitors the temperature of the water heading to your radiators has broken or disconnected, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating (CH) Flow NTC Sensor
  • Wiring harness/connector

Related codes

E2 222

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the internal sensor that monitors water temperature, meaning it cannot safely heat your water or radiators.

High Engineer only £140-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC Thermistor)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E2 223

Your boiler has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors water temperature, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-£190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness
  • Control board

Related codes

E2 233

Your boiler has lost communication with the sensor that monitors water temperature, causing the system to shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

E2 350

Your boiler has stopped working because a sensor that monitors water temperature has developed an electrical fault and can no longer read the heat levels correctly.

High Engineer only £120-£200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Temperature Sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

E2 351

Your boiler has lost its connection to the component that monitors how hot the water is getting, meaning it cannot operate safely and has shut down.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness / Connector

Related codes

E5 218

Your boiler has shut down because the internal water temperature has become too hot for it to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  2. Ensure your system pressure is topped up to between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Reset the boiler using the reset button on the control panel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Main heat exchanger (de-scaling)

Related codes

E9

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected that the water inside has become dangerously hot or the system pressure is incorrect.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  2. If the pressure is low, use the filling loop to top it up
  3. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open
  4. Press the reset button once the system has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Temperature Sensor (NTC)

Related codes

E9 210

Your boiler has shut down because a safety sensor detected that the internal exhaust gases have reached a dangerously high temperature.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Gas Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Primary Thermistor

Related codes

E9 219

Your boiler has overheated or detected a serious sensor error and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Safety Limit Thermostat
  • Overheat Sensor
  • Circulating Pump

Related codes

Showing 101–110 of 151
E9 220

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected an dangerously high internal temperature or a faulty electrical connection in the safety sensor.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Safety Temperature Limiter (STB)
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

E9 224

Your boiler has shut down because a safety sensor detected that the internal gases have become too hot.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas thermostat
  • Overheat limit thermostat
  • Main heat exchanger cleaning

Related codes

E9 276

Your boiler has shut down because the water inside it has become too hot and risked overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open to allow water to circulate
  2. Ensure your central heating system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Press the reset button once the boiler has had time to cool down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Thermistor (NTC Sensor)

Related codes

E9 277

Your boiler has shut itself down because it has detected that the water inside the unit is getting too hot and reaching unsafe temperatures.

High Engineer only £120-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Safety Temperature Limiter (Overheat Stat)
  • Main Heat Exchanger (De-scaling)

Related codes

E9 285

Your boiler has sensed that the water coming back from your radiators or hot water tank is dangerously hot, causing it to shut down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

E9 318

Your boiler has shut down because it can no longer safely monitor the temperature of the exhaust gases leaving the system.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas temperature sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

EA

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light the fuel required to provide heating and hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas or oil supply is turned on and that you have credit on your meter
  2. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts
  3. Thaw your external condensate pipe with warm water if it is frozen during cold weather

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensor
  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Lead

Related codes

EA 227

Your boiler has tried to light several times but cannot establish a steady flame, meaning it has shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your oil tank has run out of fuel
  2. Ensure the oil supply valve on the tank is fully open
  3. Press the reset button once to see if the boiler restarts

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell
  • Oil pump
  • Ignition electrodes
  • Oil nozzle

Related codes

EA 229

Your boiler has started to heat up but the flame has unexpectedly gone out, causing the system to stop working for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation probe
  • Ignition electrode
  • PCB
  • Gas valve

Related codes

EA 234

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal control board has lost communication with the gas valve, meaning it cannot safely light the flame.

High Engineer only £180-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Wiring Harness
  • Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 111–120 of 151
EA 261

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered an error and cannot communicate properly, causing the system to stop working for safety.

High DIY-safe £280-450

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on your boiler's control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds
  3. Wait for the boiler to restart and check if the fault code clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

EA 269

Your boiler is trying to light itself but failing to sense a flame within the safe time limit, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check if you have credit on your oil tank or gas meter
  2. Ensure the external fuel isolation valve is fully open
  3. Press the 'Reset' button on the control panel once to see if the system clears the air block

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Ionisation Probe
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB Control Board

Related codes

EC 256

Your boiler's computer system has detected an internal electronic failure, meaning the burner cannot start and the system has shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £250-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Box
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

EF 349

Your boiler is working harder than it should because water isn't circulating properly through the system, causing the pipes leading out of the boiler to be much hotter than those coming back.

Medium DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air
  3. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow/Return thermistors
  • Central heating filter

Related codes

EH 258

Your boiler’s internal computer system has detected a hardware failure or a loose connection, meaning it cannot communicate with the parts that manage heat.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F0

Your boiler's internal computer is having trouble communicating with its electrical components, preventing it from starting up properly.

High Engineer only £120-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Programmer interface module
  • Main PCB
  • Ignition leads

Related codes

F0 237

Your boiler has experienced an internal electronics crash or software glitch that is preventing it from starting up properly.

High DIY-safe £250-£450

What to check first

  1. Locate the main power switch for the boiler (usually a fused spur nearby).
  2. Turn the power off, wait for 30 seconds, and turn it back on to reboot the system.
  3. If the code persists, press and hold the 'Reset' button on the boiler fascia for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

F0 238

Your boiler has detected an electrical issue with the internal components that control the fuel flow, preventing it from firing up safely.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil pump solenoid
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Box

Related codes

F0 239

Your boiler's internal computer brain or control module has developed a fault and can no longer communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control Box
  • Heat Control Module (HCM)

Related codes

F0 242

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a critical communication error and cannot tell the system to heat your home or water.

High Engineer only £250-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

Showing 121–130 of 151
F0 258

Your boiler's internal computer or control unit has encountered a serious communication error and can no longer operate your heating or hot water safely.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB (Control Box)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F0 262

Your boiler's internal computer brain or its connection chip has encountered a critical electrical failure and can no longer control the heating process.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB (Control Box)

Related codes

F0 272

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a critical electronic fault and cannot communicate with the system components.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB (Control Box)

Related codes

F0 278

Your boiler's internal computer has detected a problem with its electronic sensors or their wiring, preventing the system from starting up safely.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F0 279

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a serious communication error and can no longer safely control the burner.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Control Board)
  • KIM (Key Identifier Module)

Related codes

F0 280

Your boiler's electronic brains have developed a fault or aren't plugged in correctly, meaning the system cannot communicate or function.

High Engineer only £280-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • PCB (Main Control Board)

Related codes

F0 287

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a communication fault, meaning it cannot safely control the burner to heat your home.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit
  • KIM (Key Identification Module)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F0 290

Your boiler's internal computer brain is either loose or has developed a fault, preventing the unit from starting up.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • HCM (Heat Cell Module)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F1 259

Your boiler's internal computer or its connection hub has developed a fault and cannot communicate correctly with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main PCB (Control Box)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

F1 263

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer communicate with the main controls, meaning the unit cannot operate safely.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Heat Control Module (HCM)
  • Main Control Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

Showing 131–140 of 151
F7

Your boiler thinks a flame is still burning even though it should be turned off, which is a safety error that prevents the system from starting.

High Engineer only £120-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Photocell
  • Optical sensor
  • Control board (PCB)

Related codes

F7 228

Your boiler thinks it sees a flame even though the burner hasn't actually started yet, which is causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photocell
  • Oil pump solenoid
  • Control box

Related codes

F7 328

Your boiler has experienced a temporary interruption to its electrical power supply and needs to be restarted.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the boiler control panel
  2. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds
  3. Wait for the boiler to restart and check if the fault code clears

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (usually a reset only)
  • PCB (if fault recurs frequently)

Related codes

FA

Your boiler is seeing a flame when it should be turned off, which means the fuel supply might not be closing properly.

Emergency Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Oil pump
  • Solenoid valve
  • Optical sensor
  • Control box

Related codes

FA 306

Your boiler thinks a flame is still burning inside even though it has been told to turn off.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Photo-electric cell (PEC)
  • Oil nozzle
  • Control box
  • Solenoid valve

Related codes

FA 364

Your boiler has detected a potential internal gas leak within the control valve, which is a safety risk that prevents the appliance from firing.

Emergency Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

FB 365

Your boiler has detected a potential internal leak within the gas control valve and has shut down for safety.

Emergency Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

FD

Your boiler has gone into a temporary lockout because the reset button was pressed accidentally or for too long.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Press and release the reset button once more to clear the fault.
  2. Wait for the boiler to complete its startup sequence.
  3. Check if the display returns to its normal operating temperature.

Related codes

FD 231

Your boiler has lost its electrical power supply or experienced a sudden interruption in the mains connection.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check if there has been a local power cut in your street.
  2. Inspect your home's main consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit breaker has tripped.
  3. Ensure the boiler's isolation switch or fused spur is turned on and the fuse hasn't blown.

Parts commonly replaced

  • 3-amp fuse
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

H07

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside the system has dropped too low to operate effectively, meaning your heating and hot water may not work correctly.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the internal filling link or external filling loop (braided silver hose).
  2. Open the valve or valves slowly to allow water into the system.
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until it reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar, then close the valves securely.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Showing 141–150 of 151
HrE

Your boiler is experiencing a software or communication error that is causing it to constantly restart itself.

High Engineer only £250-£650

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Display board
  • Wiring harness
Light off

Your boiler is currently idle because it hasn't received a signal from your thermostat or timer to start heating your water.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Ensure your programmer or heating timer is set to 'ON' or 'AUTO'
  3. Check if the batteries in your wireless thermostat need replacing

Parts commonly replaced

  • Room thermostat
  • External programmer
  • Thermostat batteries

Related codes

Light on

Your boiler is currently working as expected and is responding to a request to provide heating for your home.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check your room thermostat is set to the desired temperature
  2. Ensure your programmer or timer is set to an 'on' period
  3. No further action is required as this is a status indicator rather than a fault
NO CODE 212

Your boiler is shutting down because it is heating up much faster than it can move the water around the system, often due to a blockage or a pump issue.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves (TRVs) are open to allow water flow.
  2. Verify that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  3. Ensure all isolation valves under the boiler are in the fully open position.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Main heat exchanger (de-scaling)
No light

Your boiler has lost power completely and will not turn on because electricity is not reaching the main control unit.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if the boiler's power switch or the main fused spur on the wall is turned on.
  2. Inspect your home's consumer unit (fuse box) to see if a circuit breaker has tripped.
  3. If the outlet has a plug, try changing the 3-amp fuse in the plug top.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Internal PCB fuse
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
rE

Your boiler is currently attempting to restart itself multiple times due to an internal system error.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Ignition Transformer
  • Spark Electrode

Related codes

T1

Your boiler is currently testing its ignition system to try and start the burner.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its automatic startup sequence
  2. Ensure there is enough oil in your storage tank
  3. Press the reset button if the code remains on the screen for more than a few minutes

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrodes
  • Ignition transformer
  • Photocell

Related codes

T2

Your boiler's internal fan is failing to start correctly, meaning the system cannot safely clear exhaust fumes and will not fire up.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Control board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

T3

Your boiler is performing a routine check of its internal pump and has paused its normal operation to ensure everything is working correctly.

Low DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Wait for the test to complete automatically (usually takes a few minutes)
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Check that any isolation valves under the boiler are fully open

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (Maintenance Code)
  • Circulation Pump (if test fails repeatedly)
T4

Your boiler's internal switching valve is stuck or having trouble moving between the heating and hot water settings.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Three-way valve actuator motor
  • Three-way valve diverter kit
  • Control board

Related codes

Showing 151–151 of 151
T6

Your boiler's control system has detected an internal electronic error during a safety check, preventing the unit from starting up.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB
  • Control Box
  • Wiring Harness