Baxi Combi Elite Fault codes & diagnostics

39 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24-30 kW 2015-2019 Discontinued

Replaced by: Main Eco Compact

This boiler uses LED flash patterns

Count the flashes in one repeating group before the pause. That number is your fault code. Do not reset until you have noted it. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
29 High 6 Medium 4 Low

All 39 documented codes

Tap any card for details

© neon flashing

Your boiler has detected a problem with a internal sensor that monitors water temperature, meaning it cannot safely heat your home or water.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating NTC Sensor
  • Domestic Hot Water NTC Sensor
neon flashing (Section D)

Your boiler is failing to clear its system of air before starting, so it has safely shut down to prevent ignition.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Venturi
  • Fan assembly
  • Flue seals
neon flashing (Section E)

Your boiler is failing to light the fuel inside even though it is trying to start, so it has safely shut itself down to prevent a gas build-up.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition PCB
  • Gas valve
  • Flame sensing electrode
neon flashing (Section H & K)

Your boiler's internal computer has crashed or is struggling to process the reset command, preventing it from starting up again safely.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Knob Interface
neon flashing (Section I)

Your boiler is lighting up but shutting off shortly after because it cannot confirm that the flame is staying on, meaning you currently have no heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame rectification probe
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
neon flashing (Section J)

Your boiler has detected that it is running too hot and has automatically shut itself down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Pump
  • Diverter Valve
且 neon flashing

Your boiler is failing to light properly or stay lit, meaning your heating and hot water will not work until it is reset or repaired.

High DIY-safe £90-280

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is turned on at the meter
  2. Check if other gas appliances like a hob are working
  3. Turn the selector switch to 'R' (Reset) for 5 seconds and then release

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensing probe
  • Gas valve
布 & 皿 neons flashing

Your boiler has reached an unsafe temperature or detected excessive heat in the exhaust, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Allow the unit to cool down and attempt a reset by turning the selector knob to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Flue Thermistor
  • Central Heating Pump
布 neon flashing

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not circulating correctly through the system to prevent it from overheating.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking flow

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Primary Flow Switch
  • Microswitch
毛 neon flashing

Your boiler has detected an issue with how it clears exhaust gases, which has caused the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Venturi Tube
Showing 11–20 of 39
閃 neon flashing

Your boiler is currently warming itself up in the background to ensure you have hot water ready and available when you turn on a tap.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is a normal operational light.
  2. Wait a few minutes for the preheating cycle to finish.
  3. If you wish to stop this occurring, check your user manual to disable the 'Pre-heat' or 'Comfort' setting.
10

Your boiler is struggling to detect the temperature of the water coming from your taps, which means it cannot reliably provide hot water.

Medium Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness
23

Your boiler has detected that it is overheating and has automatically switched itself off to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Safety Thermostat
  • Diverter Valve
  • Central Heating Pump
24

Your boiler is struggling to clear exhaust gases safely, so it has stopped working to prevent any potential build-up of fumes.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Venturi
  • Wiring harness
25

Your boiler is struggling to circulate water properly, likely because the pressure inside your heating system has dropped too low or the internal pump is stuck.

High DIY-safe £120-250

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; if it is below 1 bar, locate the filling loop (usually a silver lever or flexible hose underneath).
  2. Slowly open the filling loop to let water into the system until the gauge reads between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the filling loop firmly once the needle is in the green zone and restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
26

Your boiler is struggling to detect the temperature of the water for your taps, which means it cannot reliably provide hot water.

Medium Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Thermistor
27

Your boiler has lost its ability to measure the temperature of the water being sent to your radiators, so it has shut down as a precaution to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Central Heating Sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

28

Your boiler is having trouble measuring the temperature of your hot water, which likely means your taps and shower are running cold.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness
29

Your boiler's internal thermometer for the heating system has stopped working correctly, so it has shut down to prevent itself from overheating.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating (NTC) Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness
CH Fault

Your boiler has encountered a problem specifically with the central heating operation, meaning your radiators likely won't heat up even though your hot water might still work.

Medium DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat or heating programmer is turned up and calling for heat
  2. Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are open and not stuck in the closed position
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to the 'R' position for at least 5 seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Diverter Valve
  • Central Heating Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • Pump
Showing 21–30 of 39
DHW Fault

Your boiler is providing central heating as normal, but there is a specific problem preventing its ability to heat your water.

Medium Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
  • DHW Flow Switch
  • Diaphragm
DHW FLOW SWITCH

Your boiler thinks a hot water tap is turned on even when all taps are closed, which prevents the heating from working correctly.

Medium Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) Flow Switch
  • Flow Sensor Turbine
  • Wiring Harness
DHW Flow Switch section

Your boiler is not detecting that you have turned on your hot water tap, meaning the water will likely stay cold.

Medium Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Flow Switch
  • Diaphragm
  • Microswitch
Dry-Fire section

Your boiler has detected that it is firing without enough water inside, which has triggered a safety shutdown to prevent internal damage.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler
  2. If the pressure is below 1 bar, use the filling loop to top it up to 1.5 bar
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Low Water Pressure Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger
FAN

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan, which safely exhausts fumes, isn't spinning correctly or communicating with the control board.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness
Fan Lockout

Your boiler has detected that the internal fan, which safely removes waste gases, is not spinning correctly or at all.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Air Pressure Switch
  • PCB
Flame Failure (Red Light) ON

Your boiler has failed to ignite the gas burner, which means it cannot heat your water or radiators.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button (usually marked with an 'R' or a flame symbol) and hold for 5 seconds.
  2. Check that your gas emergency control valve is in the 'on' position and other gas appliances are working.
  3. Ensure your prepaid gas meter has sufficient credit.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Flow Thermistor

Your boiler has identified a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water leaving the unit, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
  • Connecting Wiring Loom
Ignition Lockout

Your boiler has failed to light several times and has locked itself for safety, meaning you currently have no heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a gas hob, are working to confirm your gas supply is active.
  2. Check if your gas meter has credit (if on a prepayment meter) and that the emergency handle is in the 'ON' position.
  3. Press the reset button on the front of the boiler control panel for five seconds to see if it restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Spark Generator
  • PCB
Live & Neutral Reversed

Your boiler has detected that the electrical supply wires are connected in the wrong order, causing the system to lock out for safety.

High Engineer only £80-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • External electrical wiring
  • Fused spur unit
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB) if damaged by reverse polarity
Showing 31–39 of 39
Low Electrical Supply

Your boiler is not receiving enough electricity from the mains supply to operate safely and effectively.

High Engineer only £100-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Voltage Regulator
  • External Wiring
Overheat Lockout

Your boiler has reached an unsafe temperature and has automatically shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to cool down for at least 30 minutes.
  2. Check that your radiator valves are open and not blocked by furniture.
  3. Turn the selector switch to the 'Reset' position for five seconds and then back to its original setting.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat (Limit Statutory)
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • NTC Temperature Sensor
Pressure Gauge above 3 bar

Your boiler has too much water inside it, causing the pressure to rise to a level where the safety valve must release the excess to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-220

What to check first

  1. Check that the filling loop valves are fully closed and not leaking water into the system
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to reduce the system pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge until it returns to the normal range, typically between 1 and 1.5 bar
  4. If pressure continues to rise after bleeding, call a Gas Safe engineer to inspect the expansion vessel

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion Vessel
  • Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)
  • Filling Loop Tap
Pressure Gauge below 1 bar

Your boiler has lost water pressure, meaning there isn't enough water in the system to keep the heating and hot water running.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath your boiler.
  2. Slowly open the two black taps on the filling loop until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close both taps tightly once the needle reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve
Red 'Flame Failure' neon lit

Your boiler has attempted to light the gas burner multiple times but has failed to detect a flame, causing it to shut down for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board
Return Thermistor

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit, causing it to stop running as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main Control Board
閃 neon illuminated

Your boiler is receiving electrical power and is currently switched on and ready to operate.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action required; this is a normal status indicator.
  2. Ensure your thermostat is calling for heat if you want the boiler to fire up.
  3. Check that the external timer or programmer is set to 'On' if the boiler remains idle.