Chaffoteaux Sterling FF Fault codes & diagnostics

37 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

System Natural Gas 15-24 kW 1997-2005 Discontinued

Replaced by: Chaffoteaux Britony

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Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
3 Emergency 23 High 9 Medium 2 Low

All 37 documented codes

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2a

Your boiler has stopped working because the amount of water inside the heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £0-80

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is a silver braided hose usually found underneath the boiler.
  2. Open the small valve(s) on the loop to let water in until the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler reads between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the valve(s) tightly once the correct pressure is reached.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure gauge
  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

2b

Your boiler is making loud noises because the internal water pump is failing to move water around the system properly.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Pump head
  • Pump capacitor
5.i

Your boiler is struggling to detect the flow of water correctly, meaning it is failing to heat your taps or shower effectively.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water flow switch
  • Water governor assembly

Related codes

5.ii

Your boiler is struggling to detect the water flow because the mains water pressure coming into your home is currently too weak.

Medium DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Check that the mains water stop tap located under your sink or where the water line enters your home is fully open.
  2. Ensure no other taps or appliances are using a high volume of water simultaneously.
  3. If you have recently had water works in your area, contact your local water provider to check for supply issues.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow sensor
  • Water pressure switch

Related codes

5.iii

Your boiler is struggling to provide hot water because the debris filter that cleans the water entering the system has become clogged, restricting the flow.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Cold water inlet filter
  • Sealing washers

Related codes

5.iv

Your boiler is struggling to heat your water properly because an internal component inside the flue system is not the correct size for your specific appliance.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Venturi

Related codes

5.v

Your boiler's hot water system is failing to regulate its temperature correctly, meaning the unit is unable to provide a consistent hot water supply.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) Limit Thermostat
  • NTC Sensor
5.vi

Your boiler is failing to switch on the internal valves required to provide hot water to your taps.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • PCB
  • Wiring harness
5.vii

Your boiler is struggling to detect the water flow needed to heat your taps, causing it to rapidly turn on and off while trying to start.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW flow switch
  • Diaphragm
  • Microswitch

Related codes

5.viii

Your boiler is struggling to work because it is not receiving enough gas from your supply mains.

High Engineer only £100-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Gas meter regulator
  • Gas pipework isolation

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 37
6.i

Your boiler has stopped heating because it is not detecting enough water moving through the system to operate safely.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow switch
  • Diverter valve
  • Central heating pump

Related codes

6.ii

Your boiler has stopped working because the mechanical part responsible for moving water around the system is stuck and cannot spin.

High Engineer only £150-£300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Pump capacitor
  • Pump head

Related codes

6.iii

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect enough water pressure inside the system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate your boiler's filling loop (the silver braided hose under the unit)
  2. Slowly open the valves on the loop to let water into the system
  3. Watch the pressure gauge on the front until the needle reaches 1.5 bar, then securely close the valves

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
6.iv

Your boiler is failing to detect the water flow needed to start heating your home or providing hot water.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow switch
  • DHW diaphragm
6.v

Your boiler has stopped heating your home's radiators because it is unable to accurately sense the current water temperature.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

7.i

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure inside your heating system is too high, causing it to release water to prevent damage.

Emergency Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure Relief Valve
  • Heating Expansion Vessel
  • Filling Loop
7.ii

Your boiler is leaking water because the internal pressure relief valve is open, meaning your system is over-pressurised or unable to contain the water correctly.

Emergency Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure Relief Valve
  • Expansion Vessel
  • Filling Loop

Related codes

7.iii

Your boiler has lost the air pressure needed to run smoothly, causing it to release excess water to prevent unsafe pressure levels within the system.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve
7.iv

Your boiler has developed an internal leak between its two water systems, causing the pressure to rise and trigger a safety release valve.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Secondary heat exchanger
  • Diverter valve
  • Seals and gaskets
8.i

Your boiler is struggling because there is trapped air inside the heating system, which is making the pump sound noisy and preventing water from circulating properly.

Medium DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Turn off your boiler and let the radiators cool down completely.
  2. Use a radiator key to bleed every radiator in your home, starting from the lowest level and working your way up to the highest, until only water comes out.
  3. Check your boiler's pressure gauge and top it up to the manufacturer's recommended level (usually between 1 and 1.5 bar) using the filling loop.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Automatic air vent
  • Central heating pump
Showing 21–30 of 37
8.ii

Your boiler is struggling to circulate water because trapped air is causing the pump to run loudly and inefficiently.

Medium DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Switch off the boiler and allow it to cool completely.
  2. Locate the manual air bleed valve on the boiler's air separator or nearby pipework.
  3. Using a radiator key or screwdriver, gently open the valve until water flows steadily without air hissing, then close it securely.
  4. Check your system pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if necessary.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Automatic air vent
  • Central heating pump
8.iii

Your boiler's water pump is struggling to circulate water properly because it has become partially blocked or clogged.

Medium Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • System filter
  • Isolation valves

Related codes

8.iv

Your boiler is struggling to circulate water because the internal debris filter has become clogged, causing the pump to strain and make unusual noises.

Medium Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating filter
  • System filter
  • Circulating pump
9.i

Your boiler is overheating because the internal filter that keeps the water moving is clogged with debris, preventing heat from being carried away properly.

High Engineer only £120-200

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating filter
  • System debris strainer
  • Circulation pump
9.ii

Your boiler is overheating because water is not flowing through it properly, which has caused it to automatically shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • System filter
  • Heat exchanger

Related codes

9.iii

Your boiler is overheating because it is burning more gas than it can safely process, causing the internal system to shut down to prevent damage.

Emergency Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • PCB
  • NTC thermistor

Related codes

10

Your boiler is struggling to maintain a steady temperature and is repeatedly turning its internal burner on and off to compensate.

Medium Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Central Heating Pump
  • Primary Heat Exchanger

Related codes

10.i

Your boiler is struggling because it cannot pump enough water through the system, causing it to rapidly turn on and off to protect itself.

Medium DIY-safe £120-250

What to check first

  1. Check your central heating pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if low
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open
  3. Check that your external pump speed setting has not been turned down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Flow switch
  • Diverter valve

Related codes

10.ii

Your boiler is struggling to maintain a steady temperature and is rapidly switching itself on and off as it confuses its internal safety readings.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Limit thermostat
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • NTC thermistor

Related codes

10.iii

Your boiler is struggling to maintain a steady temperature, causing it to rapidly turn its burner on and off rather than running smoothly.

Medium Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • System bypass valve
  • Central heating pump
  • Flow sensor

Related codes

Showing 31–37 of 37
10.iv

Your boiler is struggling to move heat away from its internal workings, causing it to quickly turn on and off as it tries to protect itself from overheating.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Primary heat exchanger
  • Pump
  • System filter

Related codes

12

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure inside your heating system has dropped too low.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with one or two valves) underneath the boiler.
  2. Open the valve(s) slowly to allow water into the system while watching the pressure gauge.
  3. Close the valve(s) tightly once the needle reaches the green zone, typically between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

13

Your boiler pressure is rising too high because water is leaking into the system when it shouldn't be, which could cause a leak or pipe burst.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Plate heat exchanger

Related codes

Green

There is no fault with your boiler; the green light simply confirms that it is powered on and operating normally.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as the boiler is functioning correctly.
Lock out radiator light

Your boiler has failed to light the gas flame and has safely shut itself down to prevent any risk.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • PCB
Red

Your boiler has detected a fault and stopped working for safety reasons, meaning you currently have no heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Printed circuit board
  • Flame sensor
Yellow

Your boiler is operating normally and is currently running as expected.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action required, the boiler is functioning correctly.