Potterton Performa System HE Fault codes & diagnostics

36 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

System Natural GasLPG 12-28 kW 2005-2012 Discontinued
GC Numbers 41-591-1041-591-1141-591-12

Replaced by: Promax System HE

This boiler uses indicator light combinations

Note which lights are on, off, or flashing and at what speed. Match the combination to the cards below. Do not reset until you have noted the pattern. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 33 High 2 Low

All 36 documented codes

Tap any card for details

Flashing Mains ON light

Your boiler is receiving power, but it has been turned off at the main control dial.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the main control dial on the front of the boiler panel
  2. Turn the dial clockwise away from the 'OFF' or '0' position to your desired heating or hot water setting
MAINS LED FLASHING

Your boiler has detected that it is running too hot or has experienced an internal control error, so it has safely shut itself down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat thermostat
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Pump
  • NTC sensor
neon flashing

Your boiler has detected an internal electrical or mechanical fault that is preventing it from circulating water around your home.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Control Board (PCB)
neon flashing (Section B)

Your boiler is struggling because the internal pump, which pushes water around your radiator system, is stuck or has stopped working correctly.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating pump
  • Pump head
neon flashing (Section C)

Your boiler is struggling to detect water moving through its system, which prevents it from firing safely.

High Engineer only £150-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow switch diaphragm
  • Microswitch
  • Diverter valve components
neon flashing (Section E)

Your boiler has detected an issue with the airflow system, which means it cannot safely clear waste gases and has therefore shut itself down to prevent a hazard.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Venturi
  • Fan assembly
  • Silicone pressure tubes
neon flashing (Section H & K)

Your boiler is failing to light the burner because it cannot detect or create the initial spark, so it has safely shut itself down to prevent a build-up of unburnt gas.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
neon flashing (Section I)

Your boiler is failing to stay lit because it cannot reliably detect the flame needed to heat your home.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • PCB
neon flashing (Section J)

Your boiler has detected that it is running too hot and has automatically shut itself down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat thermostat
  • Central heating pump
  • Diverter valve actuator
neon flashing (Section M)

Your boiler has automatically turned itself off because it has become too hot to operate safely.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue thermostat
  • Printed Circuit Board
  • Pump
Showing 11–20 of 36
neons flashing (Section D)

Your boiler has detected that the internal fan responsible for safely exhausting fumes is not rotating or working correctly, so it has shut down to keep your home safe.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Fan wiring harness
  • NTC thermistor
NO LOCKOUT RESET

Your boiler has detected an internal error and is refusing to restart even after you have tried to reset it, meaning it cannot operate safely.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
  • Ignition sensor
Overheat Stat neons flashing

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has reached a temperature that is too high, often caused by a circulation problem or a blockage.

High DIY-safe £90-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned to zero.
  2. Verify that the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  3. Allow the boiler to cool down, then press the reset button or turn the selector switch to the 'R' position for at least 5 seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • System Sensor (NTC)
Section J (Neon Flashing)

Your boiler has got too hot and has automatically shut down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate.
  2. Let the boiler cool down for 30 minutes.
  3. Turn the control knob to the 'Reset' position for five seconds, then turn it back to 'On'.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Water Circulation Pump
  • Thermistor (NTC Sensor)
Section M (Neon Flashing)

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has detected that the exhaust gases have become too hot, which is a safety protection measure.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Overheat Thermostat
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Fan
20

Your boiler has stopped working because it failed to light properly or the waste water pipe is blocked.

High DIY-safe £100-£280

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas pre-pay meter hasn't run out of credit.
  2. Inspect the white plastic pipe (condensate pipe) outside to see if it is frozen or blocked.
  3. Attempt to reset the boiler by turning the control knob to 'R' for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Ignition lead
21

Your boiler has shut down because its internal safety sensors detected that it was beginning to overheat.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to circulate
  2. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Allow the boiler to cool down, then turn the selector switch to 'R' for five seconds to reset

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • NTC Sensor
23

Your boiler has stopped working because either there isn't enough water pressure in the system or the internal pump is unable to circulate water.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; if it is below 1 bar, it needs topping up.
  2. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath the boiler.
  3. Slowly open the valves until the pressure reaches 1.5 bar, then close them tightly.
  4. Reset the boiler to see if the fault clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Pressure Sensor
  • Expansion Vessel Re-charge
24

Your boiler has detected a problem with its internal temperature sensors, meaning it cannot accurately measure how hot the water is and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central Heating (CH) Temperature Sensor
  • NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

25

Your boiler has detected that a temperature sensor is not working correctly, which has caused the system to stop running to prevent overheating.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring harness
Showing 21–30 of 36
DRY-FIRE LOCKOUT

Your boiler is failing to light because it cannot confirm that water is flowing through the system or that the internal fan is operating correctly.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air pressure switch
  • Fan assembly
  • Venturi tube
Ignition Lockout

Your boiler has failed to start the fire needed to heat your water and has safely shut itself off to prevent gas from building up.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Spark generator (PCB)
  • Gas valve
MAINS LED OFF

Your boiler has no electricity flowing to it, meaning it cannot operate or communicate with your heating controls.

High DIY-safe £100-250

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler's power switch is turned on
  2. Check your home's fuse box (consumer unit) to see if a trip switch has flipped
  3. Ensure your plug socket, if present, is switched on and the fuse is intact

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
  • External spur switch
neon illuminated

Your boiler is currently on and operating normally as part of its internal power check.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is typically required as this is a status indicator rather than a fault.
  2. If the boiler fails to fire despite the light being on, check that your room thermostat is turned up.
  3. Ensure your gas supply is active and credit is on the meter.

Related codes

Neon4

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot light the flame or the internal drainage pipe is backed up with water.

High DIY-safe £90-280

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas prepay meter has credit and that the external gas stopcock is open.
  2. Inspect the plastic condensate pipe outside for signs of freezing or blockage; gently pour warm water over it if frozen.
  3. Turn the selector switch to the reset position for five seconds, then turn it back to the 'on' position.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Condensate Trap
Neon5

Your boiler has shut itself down because it has detected that the water or the exhaust fumes have become too hot.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned to zero
  2. Turn the control knob to the 'Reset' position for five seconds and then back to 'On'
  3. Ensure the boiler pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Pump
  • Flue Thermostat

Related codes

Neon6

Your boiler has detected an issue with how it clears exhaust fumes, preventing it from firing up for safety.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan unit
  • Air pressure switch
  • Venturi tube

Related codes

Neon7

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water pressure or the water is not moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £40-280

What to check first

  1. Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should be between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  2. If the pressure is too low, use the filling loop valves to top the system up with more water.
  3. Check if any radiator valves are fully closed or if there is a blockage in the system pipes.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Pressure Switch
  • Automatic Air Vent

Related codes

Neon8

Your boiler has lost track of the water temperature and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Loom

Related codes

Neon9

Your boiler has detected that a temperature sensor is not working correctly, meaning it cannot accurately measure how hot the water is.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

Showing 31–36 of 36
NO FAN

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot clear internal gases to prepare for safe ignition.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Pressure below 1

Your boiler has lost the water pressure needed to circulate heating around your home, likely due to a minor leak or trapped air.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is a silver flexible braided hose usually found under the boiler.
  2. Open the valves at both ends of the hose to allow water into the system while watching the pressure gauge.
  3. Close both valves once the needle reaches the green zone, typically between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)
  • Expansion Vessel
  • Filling Loop
Pressure of 3 or greater

Your boiler's internal water pressure has climbed too high, which means the system is under too much strain and needs to be brought back down to normal levels.

Emergency DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Check that the silver filling loop valves are tightly closed
  2. Bleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to reduce pressure
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge to ensure it returns to between 1 and 1.5 bar
  4. If pressure continues to rise, turn off the mains water stop tap and call an engineer

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
Reset neon does not extinguish

Your boiler has developed an internal electrical fault that is preventing it from restarting even after you try to reset it.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Selector Switch Control
SAFETY LOCKOUT

Your boiler has detected an internal safety issue and has shut itself down to prevent damage, meaning your heating and hot water will not work until it is reset or repaired.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Flame rectification probe
THERMISTOR OPEN CIRCUIT

Your boiler has lost its connection to one of its temperature sensors and has shut down to prevent the system from overheating.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness