Common problems guide

The most common Potterton Gold Combi HE problems

The faults most likely to send a Potterton Gold Combi HE into lockout — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs and whether you need a Gas Safe engineer.

This model is discontinued. Parts can be harder to source and expensive. If repair costs are mounting, a new A-rated boiler may be the smarter choice.
25 documented codes
6 most common
4 DIY-safe checks
2 engineer needed

The 6 most common faults

01
E110 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has overheated, prompting a safety switch to shut the system down to prevent damage.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water inside the boiler reaches an unsafe temperature, triggering a safety sensor to cut the power. The most common reasons are a failed pump stopping water from moving or a blockage in the heat exchanger caused by a buildup of sludge and debris.

What to try first

Check that all radiator valves are fully openEnsure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 barAllow the boiler to cool down and then press the 'Reset' button

Est. cost
£100-£280
Parts
Overheat Thermostat, Circulation Pump, Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked)
Full guide for E110
02
E119 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in the system is too low to run safely.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the internal sensor detects that the water pressure has dropped below the minimum level required for the boiler to operate. The most common reason is a small leak somewhere in your radiator system or air being released through a valve, which reduces the overall volume of water. Without enough water pressure, the boiler shuts down to prevent the heat exchanger from overheating or becoming damaged.

What to try first

Locate the external or internal filling loop (usually silver flexible hoses with blue or black handles).Slowly open the valves until you hear water flowing into the boiler.Monitor the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until it reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then close the valves tightly.The boiler should reset automatically, but you may need to press the 'R' or reset button if the code persists.

Est. cost
£0-160
Parts
Filling loop, Water pressure switch, Expansion vessel
Full guide for E119
03
E125 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot inside, usually because the water isn't moving around the system properly.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water inside the boiler reaches an unsafe temperature because it isn't being moved away into your radiators or hot water tap quickly enough. The most common reason is that the internal pump has failed or is stuck, but it can also be caused by a large air bubble trapped in the pipework blocking the flow.

What to try first

Check that all radiator valves are open and not turned off.Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar).Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking water flow.

Est. cost
£180-350
Parts
Circulation Pump, Automatic Air Vent, Safety Limit Thermostat
Full guide for E125
04
E133 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has tried to light several times but cannot establish a steady flame, likely because gas isn't reaching it or the spark is failing.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler has tried to ignite five times but failed to detect a flame, causing the system to shut down for safety. It is most commonly caused by an interruption in the gas supply, a blocked burner, or a worn-out spark electrode that can no longer create a strong enough light. In some cases, a faulty internal sensor may simply fail to 'see' the flame even if the boiler has actually lit.

What to try first

Check that your gas meter has credit and the emergency control valve is open.Verify if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to confirm gas supply.Check if the condensate pipe (outside white plastic pipe) is frozen or blocked.Press and hold the reset button for five seconds.

Est. cost
£120-350
Parts
Ignition Electrode, Gas Valve, Flame Sensing Probe
Full guide for E133
05
E20 High Engineer

Your boiler has stopped working because a sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit has developed a fault.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's control board loses communication with the sensor that monitors water temperature coming back from your radiators. The most common reason is that the internal components of the sensor have failed due to age or wear, but it can also be caused by loose or damaged electrical wiring. Since the boiler cannot safely monitor how hot the water is, it shuts down as a safety precaution.

Est. cost
£90-160
Parts
Return NTC thermistor sensor, Wiring harness / connector
Full guide for E20
06
E28 High Engineer

Your boiler's computer brain is not correctly configured or matches the wrong model, meaning the system cannot operate safely or reliably.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the internal safety sensor detects that the exhaust gases are either too hot or the sensor itself has developed an electrical failure. The most common reason is a build-up of debris or heat damage within the sensor, preventing it from sending a reliable signal to the main control board.

Est. cost
£250-450
Parts
Printed Circuit Board (PCB), Configuration Key
Full guide for E28

on the Potterton Gold Combi HE

Overheat ThermostatCirculation PumpMain Heat Exchanger (if blocked)Filling loopWater pressure switchExpansion vessel

Based on parts cited in our fault code database. Your engineer will confirm what's actually needed after diagnosis.

Call a Gas Safe engineer if…

  • You can smell gas or see signs of a leak
  • The Potterton shows an Emergency or High severity code
  • The boiler keeps locking out after repeated resets
  • You've tried the DIY checks and the fault hasn't cleared
  • There's visible water leaking from the boiler
  • The flame is yellow or orange instead of blue
See the full 25-code list for the Potterton Gold Combi HE