Potterton Gold Combi HE Fault codes & diagnostics

22 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

Combi Natural Gas 24-33 kW 2008-2015 Discontinued
GC Numbers 47-393-2147-393-2247-393-23

Replaced by: Gold Combi ErP

The fault code is already on your display

Note it down before pressing reset — resetting clears the code immediately. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
19 High 2 Medium 1 Low
Just want the most common Potterton Gold Combi HE faults?
The top 6 problems in plain English — with causes, DIY checks and repair costs.
Fault codes

All 22 documented codes

Tap any card for details

E01

Your boiler has failed to light, which means your heating and hot water will not work until the gas flow or ignition is restored.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit and that the external gas isolation valve is turned on.
  2. Check if other gas appliances in your home, such as a hob, are working correctly.
  3. Press and hold the 'Reset' button for 2 seconds to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

Full explanation for E01
E02

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has become too hot inside, usually due to a blockage or a pump failure preventing water from circulating.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open.
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure displayed on the boiler gauge (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar).
  3. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds once the boiler has cooled down.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating pump
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

Full explanation for E02
E03

Your boiler has detected an issue with how exhaust gases are being cleared from the system, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue Pressure Switch
  • Fan Assembly
  • Venturi Tube

Related codes

Full explanation for E03
E04

Your boiler is repeatedly starting up and then losing its flame, causing the heating and hot water to become unreliable.

High Engineer only £120-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • PCB

Related codes

Full explanation for E04
E05

Your boiler's temperature sensor responsible for your heating system has developed a fault, meaning the boiler cannot accurately measure how hot the water is.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating flow NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Full explanation for E05
E06

Your boiler is having trouble measuring the temperature of your hot water, which usually means it won't be able to provide consistent heat for your taps and showers.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Domestic Hot Water (DHW) NTC Sensor
  • Sensor wiring harness

Related codes

Full explanation for E06
E10

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low for it to operate safely, which is usually fixed by topping up the system.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valves until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once it reaches 1.5 bar, then restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Water pressure switch
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Full explanation for E10
E20

Your boiler has stopped working because a sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning to the unit has developed a fault.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC thermistor sensor
  • Wiring harness / connector

Related codes

Full explanation for E20
E28

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust gases, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-£180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Sensor Wiring Harness

Related codes

Full explanation for E28
E35

Your boiler is detecting a flame when there shouldn't be one, leading to a safety lockout to prevent incorrect operation.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Full explanation for E35
Showing 11–20 of 22
E50

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor for your solar hot water system, which usually means the sensor is faulty or the connection is loose.

Low Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Solar temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Full explanation for E50
E110

Your boiler has overheated, prompting a safety switch to shut the system down to prevent damage.

High DIY-safe £100-£280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  3. Allow the boiler to cool down and then press the 'Reset' button

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger (if blocked)

Related codes

Full explanation for E110
E119

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in the system is too low to run safely.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the external or internal filling loop (usually silver flexible hoses with blue or black handles).
  2. Slowly open the valves until you hear water flowing into the boiler.
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler until it reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then close the valves tightly.
  4. The boiler should reset automatically, but you may need to press the 'R' or reset button if the code persists.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Water pressure switch
  • Expansion vessel
Full explanation for E119
E125

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot inside, usually because the water isn't moving around the system properly.

High DIY-safe £180-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are open and not turned off.
  2. Ensure there is enough water pressure in the system (typically 1.0 to 1.5 bar).
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking water flow.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Automatic Air Vent
  • Safety Limit Thermostat

Related codes

Full explanation for E125
E130

Your boiler has shut down because the exhaust gases have become too hot, which is a safety measure to prevent damage to the system.

High Engineer only £120-£250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

Full explanation for E130
E133

Your boiler has tried to light several times but cannot establish a steady flame, likely because gas isn't reaching it or the spark is failing.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas meter has credit and the emergency control valve is open.
  2. Verify if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to confirm gas supply.
  3. Check if the condensate pipe (outside white plastic pipe) is frozen or blocked.
  4. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Full explanation for E133
E151

Your boiler's computer brain has encountered an internal software or electronic fault and can no longer communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

Full explanation for E151
E152

Your boiler’s internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer communicate with the rest of the system.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Control Board Wiring Harness

Related codes

Full explanation for E152
E153

Your boiler's computer has temporarily locked itself because the reset button was pressed too many times in a short period.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Turn the power to the boiler off at the fused spur switch (the wall switch).
  2. Wait for approximately 5 to 10 minutes to allow the internal memory to clear.
  3. Turn the power back on and wait for the boiler to complete its start-up sequence without touching the reset button.

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB) if fault persists

Related codes

Full explanation for E153
E160

Your boiler has detected that the internal fan, which clears waste gases from the system, is not spinning at the correct speed or has stopped working.

High Engineer only £220-£380

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Full explanation for E160
Showing 21–22 of 22
E164

Your boiler is having trouble detecting when you turn on your hot water taps, which may result in your water staying cold.

Medium Engineer only £120-£210

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Flow Sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Full explanation for E164
E193

Your boiler has likely detected trapped air or a blockage inside, which is preventing water from circulating properly and causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £80-180

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar
  2. Bleed your radiators using a radiator key to release any trapped air
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the control knob to 'R' for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Automatic Air Vent
  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Flush)

Related codes

Full explanation for E193