Main Eco Compact Fault codes & diagnostics

19 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

CombiSystem Natural Gas 25-30 kW 2019-present
GC Numbers 47-225-3247-225-3341-225-2541-225-26

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18 High 1 Medium

All 19 documented codes

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E09

Your boiler has lost its electrical connection to the gas supply unit, meaning it cannot ignite to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E15v

Your boiler has detected an internal issue with the gas control system and has shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E20

Your boiler has detected a fault with the internal sensor that monitors the temperature of your central heating water, causing the system to stop working as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-£160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Central heating NTC temperature sensor
  • Connecting wiring harness

Related codes

E28

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the exhaust gases, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £100-£190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC sensor
  • Wiring harness
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E40

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water returning from your radiators.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • CH Return NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E83

Your boiler's internal computer parts are having trouble talking to each other, which means the system has stopped working for safety.

High Engineer only £150-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Wiring harness
  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Display interface
E109

Your boiler is struggling to move water around the system before it starts the heating process, which is often caused by a blockage or a pump issue.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and boiler isolation valves are fully open
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger (cleaning/flushing)
  • Flow temperature sensor

Related codes

E110

Your boiler has switched itself off because it has reached an unsafe temperature, usually due to a lack of water flow or a circulation problem.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if your radiator valves are open
  2. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top up to 1.5 bar if low
  3. Press the 'R' or 'Reset' button for 2 seconds once the boiler has cooled down

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Internal Pipework (unblocking)

Related codes

E118

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the system has dropped too low and needs topping up.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually two braided silver hoses or blue levers) underneath the boiler.
  2. Open the valves slowly until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves tightly once the needle reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve
E125

Your boiler is struggling to move hot water around the system, which is usually caused by a blockage or a pump issue that is preventing the unit from cooling itself down.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the gauge
  3. Gently bleed air from your radiators using a radiator key

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Plate heat exchanger
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

E128

Your boiler has lost its flame while running, which means it has safely shut down to prevent issues.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to confirm gas supply
  2. Ensure your pre-pay gas meter has sufficient credit
  3. Press and hold the Reset button for five seconds

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Condensate trap

Related codes

E130

Your boiler has shut down because a sensor has detected that the exhaust gases are becoming too hot, which is a safety feature to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £100-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue NTC sensor
  • Main heat exchanger (cleaning or replacement)
  • Burner insulation

Related codes

E133

Your boiler has failed to light because it is not receiving enough gas or cannot detect the flame used to heat your water.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances, like a cooker hob, are working to confirm your gas supply is active.
  2. If you have a prepayment meter, check that you have enough credit.
  3. Locate the white pipe beneath the boiler and ensure it hasn't frozen if the weather is very cold.
  4. Press the 'Reset' button for five seconds to see if the boiler restarts.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Condensate Pipework

Related codes

E135

Your boiler has lost its gas supply, meaning it cannot light the flame to provide heating or hot water.

High DIY-safe £100-£250

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve (usually by the meter) is in the 'on' position.
  2. If you have a pre-payment meter, check that you have sufficient credit and the valve hasn't closed.
  3. Check if other gas appliances, like a hob, are working to confirm if the issue is with the boiler or the whole house supply.
  4. Try resetting the boiler by turning the selector switch to the 'R' position for at least five seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas Valve
  • Ignition Electrode
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E154

Your boiler has noticed that water is not circulating correctly or the temperature sensors are giving conflicting readings.

High Engineer only £120-£280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Return temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump

Related codes

E160

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan, which safely exhausts gases, is not spinning at the correct speed or has lost power.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Fan wiring harness
  • Main circuit board (PCB)

Related codes

E270

Your boiler has detected that water is not moving through the system correctly, causing it to overheat quickly.

High DIY-safe £150-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the gauge.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully open.
  3. Gently bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets.
  4. Reset the boiler to see if the fault clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Main Heat Exchanger
  • Overheat Thermostat

Related codes

E321

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the temperature of your hot water, meaning your taps may not get as hot as they should or stay consistent.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water NTC temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E384

Your boiler thinks a flame is present even when it should be off, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flame sensing electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes