Common problems guide

The most common Ravenheat boiler problems

The faults we see most often across the Ravenheat range — with plain-English causes, what to check first, estimated repair costs, and whether it's a DIY job or needs a Gas Safe engineer. Based on fault-code data across 12 Ravenheat boiler models.

39 unique codes
12 models covered
8 DIY-safe (top 8)
8 engineer needed

The most common Ravenheat faults

01
28 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water pressure or flow to operate safely, which is preventing your heating and hot water from working.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's internal sensors detect that water is not circulating correctly or the pressure has dropped too low to operate safely. The most common reason is a simple loss of water pressure in the central heating system, but it can also be caused by a mechanical failure of the pump or a faulty sensor that is incorrectly reporting low pressure.

What to try first

Check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler; it should be between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.If the pressure is too low, use the external filling loop to top up the system with water.Ensure all radiator valves are open and bleed any air from the radiators.Turn the boiler off and back on again to reset the fault.

Est. cost
£120-280
Parts
Low water pressure switch, Circulation pump, Expansion vessel
Full guide for CSI 120 28
02
02 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected an internal temperature issue and has locked itself out to prevent overheating.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water inside the heat exchanger reaches an unsafe temperature, triggering a safety shutdown. It is usually caused by a lack of water flow, often due to a seized internal pump or a blockage within the system's pipework. If the pump cannot move the hot water away from the burner quickly enough, the heat builds up rapidly and trips the overheat sensor.

What to try first

Locate the reset button on the front control panelPress and hold the reset button for at least 5 secondsCheck that your radiator valves are open and that the system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar

Est. cost
£120-250
Parts
Overheat Thermostat, NTC Temperature Sensor, Circulation Pump
Full guide for CSI 120 02
03
E02 High DIY-safe

Your boiler has stopped working because water is not moving through the system properly, which is causing it to overheat and shut down for safety.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water inside the boiler gets too hot because it isn't being moved away quickly enough to the radiators. The most common reason is a failing internal pump that has stopped spinning, or a blockage of debris and sludge that is restricting the flow of water. It can also be caused by air trapped inside the unit which prevents the pump from working effectively.

What to try first

Check that your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gaugeEnsure all radiator valves and isolation valves under the boiler are fully openBleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking circulationPress the reset button to see if the boiler restarts

Est. cost
£180-350
Parts
Circulating pump, Automatic air vent, Main heat exchanger (de-scaling)
Full guide for CSI 120 E02
04
06E High DIY-safe

Your boiler is getting too hot inside, which has triggered a safety shutdown to prevent damage to the system.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water temperature within the boiler's heat exchanger rises too high or too quickly, triggering the safety sensor to shut down the system. The most common reasons are a faulty temp sensor giving a false reading, a pump failure that stops water from moving, or a blockage caused by sludge and limescale buildup.

What to try first

Check that your radiator valves are fully openEnsure your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 barTurn the boiler off and on again (Reset) to see if the fault clears

Est. cost
£90-180
Parts
Central Heating NTC Sensor, Circulation Pump, Main Heat Exchanger (if scaled)
Full guide for HE 80/90 / 25-30s 06E
05
08E High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that there is not enough water in the system to operate safely.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the internal pressure sensor detects that the system water level has dropped below the minimum safety threshold. The most common reason is a small leak in the pipework or radiators, though it can also happen if the expansion vessel has lost its air charge or the pressure sensor itself has failed.

What to try first

Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath the boiler.Slowly open the one or two taps/valves on the filling loop until you hear water entering.Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once the needle reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.

Est. cost
£0-120
Parts
Filling loop, Expansion vessel, Pressure sensor
Full guide for HE 80/90 / 25-30s 08E
06
10E High DIY-safe

Your boiler has too much water in the system, which causes it to shut down for safety.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water pressure inside your boiler exceeds a safe limit, usually because the heating system has been overfilled via the manual filling loop. It can also be caused by a faulty tap on that filling loop leaking water into the system or an internal failure of the expansion vessel which normally helps manage pressure changes.

What to try first

Check that the external filling loop is turned off completelyBleed water from a radiator using a bleed key to reduce pressureMonitor the pressure gauge until it returns to between 1.0 and 1.5 barReset the boiler once the pressure is within the green zone

Est. cost
£80-140
Parts
Filling loop valve, Expansion vessel, Pressure relief valve
Full guide for HE 80/90 / 25-30s 10E
07
13E High DIY-safe

Your boiler's computer system has encountered a processing glitch and has stopped working to protect itself.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the boiler's internal computer brain fails to process data correctly or loses communication with its sensors. The most common reason is an electrical glitch or a component failure on the main circuit board, which causes the system to shut down for safety. In some cases, loose or damaged wiring between the components can also trigger this software conflict.

What to try first

Turn the boiler power switch to the 'Off' position.Wait for approximately 60 seconds.Turn the power back 'On' and press the Reset button if the code persists.

Est. cost
£180-350
Parts
Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB), Wiring Loom
Full guide for HE 80/90 / 25-30s 13E
08
21E High DIY-safe

Your boiler has detected that the water returning from your radiators is too hot, which has caused it to shut down for safety.

Why it happens: This fault occurs when the water traveling back into the boiler from your radiators becomes excessively hot, causing the system to shut down to prevent internal damage. The most common reason is a lack of water circulation, often caused by a failing pump or a buildup of sludge and debris that blocks the main heat exchanger.

What to try first

Ensure all radiator valves (TRVs) are fully open and not stuck.Check that the internal boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar.Reset the boiler using the control knob or button to see if the fault clears.

Est. cost
£120-250
Parts
Central heating return NTC sensor, Circulation pump, Main heat exchanger (flushing service)
Full guide for HE 80/90 / 25-30s 21E

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