Vokera Mynute 28E / 35E Fault codes & diagnostics

16 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

System Natural GasLPG 28-35 kW 2000-2005 Discontinued
GC Numbers 41-094-1141-094-13

Replaced by: Mynute HE

The fault code is already on your display

Note it down before pressing reset — resetting clears the code immediately. How to read fault codes →

Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
14 High 2 Low
Just want the most common Vokera Mynute 28E / 35E faults?
The top 6 problems in plain English — with causes, DIY checks and repair costs.
Fault codes

All 16 documented codes

Tap any card for details

01

Your boiler is failing to light the gas flame, which means you have no heating or hot water until the system is reset or repaired.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is turned on at the meter
  2. Turn the mode selector switch to the 'OFF/RESET' position and then back to 'ON'
  3. Check if other gas appliances in your home are working correctly

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Full explanation for 01
02

Your boiler has sensed that it is getting too hot and has shut itself down as a safety precaution.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.
  2. Wait for the boiler to cool down for at least 30 minutes.
  3. Turn the mode selector switch to the 'OFF/RESET' position and then back to 'ON'.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Overheat Thermostat
  • Circulation Pump
  • Limit Thermostat

Related codes

Full explanation for 02
03

Your boiler is having trouble venting exhaust gases or drawing in fresh air, which has caused it to stop working for safety reasons.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Air Pressure Switch
  • Fan
  • Venturi Tube

Related codes

Full explanation for 03
04

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure is too low for it to run safely.

High DIY-safe £0-160

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath your boiler.
  2. Slowly open the small valves on the hose until you hear water flowing.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the valves once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure switch
  • Expansion vessel recharge
  • Filling loop valve

Related codes

Full explanation for 04
05

Your boiler's main control board has encountered an internal electronic error and can no longer manage the heating process safely.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

Full explanation for 05
06

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that measures the temperature of the water leaving the unit, causing it to shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness / sensor lead

Related codes

Full explanation for 06
07

Your boiler has stopped working because a sensor that monitors water temperature has likely broken or disconnected.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Hot water NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Full explanation for 07
08

Your boiler has shut down because a specific safety sensor on the burner has detected that it is getting too hot.

High Engineer only £100-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner thermostat
  • Main heat exchanger
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Full explanation for 08
09

Your boiler's internal computer has developed a fault and can no longer control the heating system correctly.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Control Knob Interface

Related codes

Full explanation for 09
AL40

Your boiler has stopped working because the water pressure in the central heating system is too low.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver braided hose with small valves underneath the boiler).
  2. Slowly open the valve(s) until you hear water entering the system and the pressure gauge reaches between 1 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the valves tightly and press the reset button on the boiler control panel.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel

Related codes

Full explanation for AL40
AL41

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in the system is too low to operate safely and has shut down to protect itself.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop (usually a silver flexible hose) underneath or near the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the one or two taps/valves on the filling loop until you hear water moving.
  3. Watch the pressure gauge and close the taps firmly once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  4. Press the 'Reset' button on the boiler control panel to clear the error.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure sensor

Related codes

Full explanation for AL41
AL74

Your boiler has detected an internal electronic error or a communication failure that is preventing it from heating your home.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Locate the mode selector switch on the front panel
  2. Turn the switch to the 'OFF/RESET' position
  3. Wait 30 seconds, then turn the switch back to either 'Heating' or 'Hot Water' mode

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Loom
Full explanation for AL74
AL79

Your boiler has detected an internal electronic error or a communication failure that is preventing it from heating your home.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Locate the mode selector switch on the front panel
  2. Turn the switch to the 'OFF/RESET' position
  3. Wait 30 seconds, then turn the switch back to either 'Heating' or 'Hot Water' mode

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring Loom
Full explanation for AL79
CO

Your boiler has been manually set to a temporary test mode for a gas safety check and is not experiencing a functional fault.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait 15 minutes for the test mode to time out automatically
  2. Turn the mode selector dial to 'OFF' for a few seconds and then back to 'ON'
  3. Check if the selector dial was accidentally left in the 'Service' or 'CO' position
Full explanation for CO
L1

Your boiler is currently waiting for a demand for heating or hot water and is not experiencing a fault.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is turned up higher than the current room temperature
  2. Ensure your programmer or heating timer is switched to an 'On' period
  3. Verify that the boiler selector switch is set to the correct mode for heating or hot water

Related codes

Full explanation for L1
L2

Your boiler has failed to ignite properly and has locked itself out for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check if your gas supply is turned on at the meter
  2. Turn the mode selector switch to the 'OFF/RESET' position and wait for a few seconds
  3. Turn the switch back to the 'ON' position to restart the ignition process

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)

Related codes

Full explanation for L2