Vokera Mynute Vhe Fault codes & diagnostics

31 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

System Natural GasLPG 15-20 kW 2010-2015 Discontinued
GC Numbers 41-311-7341-311-7441-311-75

Replaced by: Mynute iVhe

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Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 28 High 1 Medium 1 Low

All 31 documented codes

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10

Your boiler has failed to light because it cannot detect a flame or is struggling to vent correctly.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, like a cooker, are working.
  2. Ensure your gas meter has credit if you use a pre-payment meter.
  3. Check outside to ensure the flue pipe is not blocked by debris or ice.
  4. Reset the boiler by turning the selector switch to 'OFF/RESET' and then back to 'ON'.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
AF

Your boiler has detected very cold temperatures and is automatically warming itself up to prevent the internal pipes from freezing.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your heating timer is set to come on periodically during freezing weather to help prevent this
  2. Ensure your boiler is not located in a draughty or uninsulated area, such as a garage or loft
  3. Monitor the boiler for a short time to see if the code clears once the temperature rises
AL10

Your boiler has failed to light or stay lit, which is often caused by a blocked condensate pipe or a sensor detecting a problem with the ignition process.

High DIY-safe £80-250

What to check first

  1. Locate the external plastic condensate pipe and check if it has frozen in cold weather.
  2. If frozen, carefully pour warm (not boiling) water over the pipe to melt the ice.
  3. Restart the boiler by turning the mode selector switch to 'Reset' and then back to the original position.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Condensate Trap
  • Gas Valve
AL20

Your boiler has shut down because its internal safety sensor has detected that the water temperature has risen too high.

High DIY-safe £90-180

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves and boiler isolation valves are fully open
  2. Turn the selector switch to the 'OFF/RESET' position, wait five seconds, and turn it back to 'ON'
  3. Check that your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge

Parts commonly replaced

  • Limit Thermostat (High Limit Stat)
  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensor

Related codes

AL21

Your boiler has shut down because a built-in safety sensor or an external monitoring device has detected a problem that prevents the system from running safely.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • Condensate Pump
  • UHT thermostat
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

AL26

Your boiler has sensed that the water returning from your radiators is too hot, which usually means the heat isn't being transferred out of the system properly.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves (TRVs) are fully open and not stuck.
  2. Ensure the central heating bypass valve, if visible, is open.
  3. Check that the internal pump is audible and running.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Return NTC thermistor
  • Main heat exchanger (de-scaling)

Related codes

AL28

Your boiler has detected that the water coming back from your radiators is hotter than the water going out, which usually means the water isn't circulating correctly or a sensor is faulty.

High Engineer only £90-180

Parts commonly replaced

  • NTC Temperature Sensor
  • Circulation Pump
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

AL34

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot correctly detect the speed of the fan responsible for clearing exhaust gases.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan motor
  • Wiring harness
  • Main circuit board (PCB)
AL40

Your boiler has stopped heating your home because the pressure of the water inside the system has dropped too low to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a small metal braided hose under the boiler.
  2. Open the filling valve slowly until the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler reads between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.
  3. Close the valve firmly and check the boiler display to see if the error code clears.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Pressure relief valve
  • Pressure gauge
  • Filling loop
AL41

Your boiler's safety sensor is detecting an inconsistent water flow signal, which is preventing the system from firing up correctly.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water pressure switch
  • Main PCB
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 11–20 of 31
AL52

Your boiler has encountered a internal electronic communication error that is preventing it from running safely.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Electronic Control Unit

Related codes

AL55

Your boiler's main control board has been set up with incorrect configuration settings, meaning it doesn't know which specific model it is supposed to be.

High Engineer only £100-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Jumper Tags

Related codes

AL60

Your boiler's internal computer has lost its configuration settings and no longer knows which model it is supposed to be operating.

High Engineer only £90-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Configuration Jumper Tag

Related codes

AL71

Your boiler has detected an issue with the sensor that monitors the temperature of the water leaving the unit, causing it to shut down as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness connection

Related codes

AL73

Your boiler has detected a problem with the sensor that monitors the water temperature returning from your radiators, preventing the system from heating effectively.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

AL74

Your boiler has stopped because water isn't moving through the pipes as it should, likely due to a blockage or a pump failure.

High DIY-safe £150-350

What to check first

  1. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  2. Ensure all radiator valves and internal stop taps are fully open.
  3. Gently bleed air from your radiators using a radiator key.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Flow thermistor
  • Pump capacitor

Related codes

AL79

Your boiler has shut down because it is getting too hot too quickly, usually because the water isn't moving through the system properly.

High DIY-safe £100-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are open and not turned to zero.
  2. Ensure your system pressure is between 1.0 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  3. Try resetting the boiler by turning the mode selector switch to 'OFF/RESET' for a few seconds.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • NTC Temperature Sensors
  • Main Heat Exchanger

Related codes

E01

Your boiler is unable to light the gas flame needed to heat your home or water.

High DIY-safe £100-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas supply is turned on at the meter
  2. Check if other gas appliances (like a hob) are working
  3. Press the Reset button on the boiler control panel
  4. Ensure your condensate pipe has not frozen if it is very cold outside

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition electrode
  • Gas valve
  • Spark generator
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

E02

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected it is getting too hot, likely due to a circulation problem or a faulty safety sensor.

High DIY-safe £100-220

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow.
  2. Check that the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge.
  3. Try resetting the boiler by turning the control knob to the 'OFF/RESET' position and then back to 'ON'.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Limit Thermostat
  • Overheating Sensor
  • Circulation Pump

Related codes

E03

Your boiler has detected an issue with the system that vents exhaust gases safely outside, so it has stopped working as a safety precaution.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue thermostat
  • Fan assembly
  • Air pressure switch
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 21–30 of 31
E04

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure is too low for it to operate safely, causing the system to shut down.

High DIY-safe £60-140

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a flexible silver hose under the boiler.
  2. Slowly open the valves to let water into the system while watching the pressure gauge.
  3. Close the valves once the needle reaches between 1.0 and 1.5 bar, then restart the boiler.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Water Pressure Switch
  • Filling Loop
  • Expansion Vessel Re-pressurisation

Related codes

E05

Your boiler's fan, which safely clears exhaust gases from the system, is not spinning at the correct speed or reporting its status correctly.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Hall sensor
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E06

Your boiler is having trouble measuring the temperature of your hot water due to a faulty internal sensor.

Medium Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E07

Your boiler's main temperature sensor has developed a fault or is disconnected, meaning the system cannot safely monitor how hot the water is getting.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Primary NTC thermistor
  • Wiring harness connection

Related codes

E08

Your boiler has stopped working because one of its internal temperature sensors has developed a fault and can no longer monitor the water returning to the unit.

High Engineer only £90-160

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return NTC Thermistor
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E09

Your boiler has detected that either a temperature sensor in the exhaust pipe is faulty or the main heating component is becoming blocked and dirty.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue thermistor
  • Heat exchanger
  • Burner gasket

Related codes

E10

Your boiler has detected that the waste water trap is full or there is an issue with the sensor that monitors it, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £90-160

What to check first

  1. Check the white plastic pipe leading from the boiler for any signs of freezing if the weather is cold.
  2. Thaw any frozen external pipework using warm (not boiling) water or a heat pack.
  3. Reset the boiler by turning the mode selector switch to the 'OFF/RESET' position and then back to 'ON'.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Condensate trap
  • Condensate sensor
  • Electrode

Related codes

E11

Your boiler has detected a signal suggesting a flame is present when it should be switched off, causing it to shut down for your safety.

Emergency Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Gas Valve
  • Flame Rectification Probe

Related codes

E21

Your boiler has detected an internal software or communication error that is preventing it from operating safely.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
E77

Your boiler is struggling because it is not receiving the correct amount of electrical power, which is causing it to shut down for protection.

High Engineer only £150-300

Parts commonly replaced

  • Printed circuit board (PCB)
  • Electrical wiring harness

Related codes

Showing 31–31 of 31
low-pressure

Your boiler has stopped working because the amount of water inside your central heating system is too low to run safely.

High DIY-safe £80-150

What to check first

  1. Locate the filling loop, which is a silver braided hose with one or two valves typically found underneath your boiler.
  2. Open the valves slowly to allow water into the system while watching the pressure gauge on the front panel.
  3. Close the valves firmly once the needle sits in the green zone, usually between 1.0 and 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Pressure relief valve
  • Expansion vessel