Worcester Bosch GB162 Fault codes & diagnostics

67 fault codes with plain-English explanations, severity ratings, DIY guidance, and repair cost estimates.

SystemRegular Natural GasLPG 50-100 kW 2008-2022 Discontinued
GC Numbers 41-311-7341-311-7441-311-7541-311-7641-311-7941-311-8941-311-90

Replaced by: Condens 7000 WP

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Severity at a glance

Each cell = one fault code. Hover to identify.
1 Emergency 51 High 2 Medium 13 Low

All 67 documented codes

Tap any card for details

9A361

Your boiler's internal computer parts are not communicating correctly because they appear to be mismatched or incompatible with each other.

High Engineer only £250-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit
  • KIM (Boiler Identification Module)

Related codes

9U233

Your boiler's computer or its security identity chip has failed, meaning the system cannot safely start the burner.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • KIM (Boiler Identification Module)
  • Burner Control Unit (PCB)
200

Your boiler is operating normally and is currently providing heat to your radiators.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this is an status indicator, not a fault.
  2. Check your thermostat settings if you did not expect the heating to be on.
  3. Monitor the display to ensure it changes when heating is no longer required.

Related codes

201

Your boiler is simply letting you know that it is currently busy heating up your tap water and is working as expected.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your hot water taps are fully turned off
  2. Once the tap is closed, wait a few moments for the code to disappear and the boiler to return to standby or heating mode
  3. If the code stays on when all taps are off, you may have a dripping tap or a minor leak in the hot water pipework

Related codes

202

Your boiler is currently in a normal waiting phase because the heating or hot water controls have signalled that it is about to start running.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is set to the desired temperature
  2. Ensure your heating programmer or timer is set to an 'On' period
  3. Wait a few minutes to see if the boiler fires up automatically as part of its normal cycle

Related codes

203

Your boiler is currently sitting in standby mode because it has reached its target temperature and is waiting for a new request for heating or hot water.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check if your room thermostat or programmer is set to a temperature higher than the current room temperature.
  2. Ensure the heating and hot water schedules are set to 'On' or 'Auto'.
  3. Wait a few minutes to see if the boiler fires up once the system temperature drops slightly.

Related codes

204

Your boiler is currently taking a short break because it has reached its target temperature and is waiting for the water to cool down slightly before firing up again.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Check that your room thermostat is set to the desired temperature
  2. Ensure at least one or two radiators have their valves fully open to allow heat to dissipate
  3. Wait 15-20 minutes to see if the code clears itself once the water temperature drops

Related codes

208

Your boiler is currently running at a fixed power level for testing purposes and is not responding to your normal thermostat settings.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Locate the button with a soot-cloud or chimney icon on the control panel.
  2. Press and hold the chimney sweep button for at least two seconds.
  3. The display should return to the normal temperature reading once the mode is deactivated.

Related codes

212

Your boiler is overheating because the water inside is heating up faster than it can be moved around the system.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar on the pressure gauge
  3. Check if the pump is running or if there are any obvious signs of a leak

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulating Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Flushing)
226

Your boiler has entered a temporary lock-out mode because a service engineer's diagnostic tool was recently plugged in and has not been properly disconnected or reset.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the reset button on the boiler control panel.
  2. Press and hold the reset button for 5 seconds.
  3. Wait for the boiler to complete its startup sequence; if the code persists, a technician may need to re-insert and properly exit their diagnostic software.

Parts commonly replaced

  • No parts usually required
  • Control display PCB (rare cases)
Showing 11–20 of 67
235

Your boiler’s internal control parts are speaking different languages because a newer component has been installed that is incompatible with the older system.

High Engineer only £250-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit (UBA)
  • KIM Module
260

Your boiler has started up but cannot detect the water getting any hotter, so it has shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-£350

What to check first

  1. Check that your central heating valves under the boiler are fully open
  2. Ensure all your radiator valves (TRVs) are turned to a high setting
  3. Check your system pressure is between 1 and 1.5 bar and top up if necessary
  4. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air pockets

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing)
265

Your boiler is temporarily reducing its power because it is producing more heat than your radiators can currently take away.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Ensure at least two or three radiators have their valves fully open
  2. Check that your thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) are not all set to 'zero' or 'off'
  3. Verify that the central heating pump is running and not stuck

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Bypass valve

Related codes

268

Your boiler is currently running a self-diagnostic check and is not experiencing an actual fault.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete its automatic test sequence.
  2. Do not turn the power off while this code is displayed.
  3. If the code persists for more than 30 minutes, press the reset button once.

Related codes

270

Your boiler is currently increasing its power to meet the demand for heating or hot water, which is a normal operational activity rather than a system failure.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. No action is required as this code is an operational status indicator.
  2. Monitor the display to see if the code clears once the temperature stabilizes.
  3. If the boiler appears stuck on this code without producing heat, try a simple reset.

Related codes

284

Your boiler has stopped working because it has detected an electrical issue with the internal gas valve or its wiring.

High Engineer only £250-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve
  • Wiring harness
  • Main PCB

Related codes

305

Your boiler is currently focused on providing hot water to your taps and will return to heating your radiators once you turn the hot water off.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Check that all hot water taps and showers are fully turned off
  2. Ensure there are no dripping taps or leaking hot water pipes
  3. Wait a few minutes to see if the code clears once the hot water demand stops

Parts commonly replaced

  • DHW Flow Sensor
  • Three-way Valve
360

Your boiler's internal computer chips are not communicating correctly because an incorrect or incompatible part has been installed.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • KIM (Identification Module)
  • Burner Control Unit (PCB)
A3317

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the sensor that monitors exhaust gases, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness
Showing 21–30 of 67
B7257

Your boiler's internal computer or its identification chip has developed a communication failure, preventing the system from operating.

High Engineer only £280-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit (PCB)
  • KIM (Boiler Identification Module)
C1264

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan, which is needed to safely clear waste gases, has either lost power or stopped communicating with the main control board.

High Engineer only £250-£650

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Main Power PCB
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

C4273

Your boiler is performing a routine safety self-check and will restart automatically in a few minutes.

Low DIY-safe

What to check first

  1. Wait for 2 minutes for the boiler to complete its safety cycle
  2. Monitor the display to ensure the code clears and the boiler restarts automatically
  3. If the code persists for more than 10 minutes, try a manual reset
C6215

Your boiler has shut down because the internal fan is spinning faster than the system can safely control.

High Engineer only £250-£580

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

C6216

Your boiler has stopped working because the internal fan is spinning too slowly to safely clear away exhaust fumes.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Venturi tube
C7214

Your boiler's air fan is failing to start up, which means the system cannot safely clear the combustion chamber to begin the heating process.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan Assembly
  • Main Control PCB
  • Wiring Loom
C7217

Your boiler's fan is failing to spin at the correct speed to begin the ignition process, preventing the boiler from firing up.

High Engineer only £250-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Fan assembly
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
  • Wiring harness
CE207

Your boiler has stopped working because there is not enough water pressure in the system to operate safely.

High DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the internal or external filling loop (the silver braided hose)
  2. Slowly open the valve(s) to allow water into the system
  3. Close the valves once the pressure gauge reaches 1.5 bar

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop
  • Expansion vessel
  • Pressure relief valve

Related codes

CE266

Your boiler has stopped working because it cannot detect any water being moved through the system by the internal pump.

High Engineer only £250-£450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Sensor
  • Main PCB

Related codes

D1240

Your boiler has detected an electrical fault with the internal sensor that monitors the water returning to the unit, causing it to shut down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £120-190

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

Showing 31–40 of 67
D1241

Your boiler has lost its connection to the sensor that monitors the water returning to the unit, causing it to stop working for safety.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

D3232

A safety switch or an external control, such as a thermostat or a condensate pump, has tripped and told the boiler to stop running.

High DIY-safe £90-220

What to check first

  1. Check if your thermostat or programmer is calling for heat and has working batteries.
  2. If you have a condensate pump, check if it is full of water or blocked.
  3. Ensure all external switches or emergency stop buttons near the boiler are in the 'On' position.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Condensate pump
  • External thermostat
  • Wiring harness link
D4213

Your boiler is heating up too quickly, which usually means the water inside is not circulating properly or the system is low on pressure.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check the system pressure gauge and top it up to 1.5 bar if it is too low
  2. Ensure all radiator valves are fully open to allow water to flow
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air that might be blocking circulation

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow/Return Temperature Sensor (NTC)
  • System Filter (Cleaning)

Related codes

D4271

Your boiler has detected that the water is heating up too quickly or isn't circulating properly, causing it to shut down to prevent overheating.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your radiator valves and any isolation valves are fully open
  2. Ensure your system pressure is topped up to between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Bleed your radiators to remove any trapped air that might be blocking circulation

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow/Return Temperature Sensors
  • Main Heat Exchanger (Flushing)
D4286

Your boiler has shut down because it thinks the water returning to the unit is dangerously hot, which usually means water isn't circulating through your radiators properly.

High DIY-safe £180-450

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open.
  2. Ensure the central heating pump is running and hasn't seized.
  3. Bleed all radiators to remove trapped air that might be blocking water flow.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation pump
  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing/cleaning)
E2222

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal thermometer has developed an electrical fault and can no longer tell how hot the water is.

High Engineer only £120-220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E2223

Your boiler has lost connection with a internal sensor that monitors water temperature, meaning it cannot safely heat your home until the connection is restored.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor (NTC thermistor)
  • Wiring harness connector
E5218

Your boiler has sensed that the internal water temperature has become dangerously hot, causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Circulation Pump
  • Flow Temperature Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger

Related codes

E9210

Your boiler has shut down because it is detecting dangerously high temperatures in the exhaust flue or a fault with the safety sensor itself.

High Engineer only £150-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas sensor
  • Heat exchanger cleaning kit
  • Main PCB

Related codes

E9219

Your boiler has reached an unsafe temperature and has automatically shut down to prevent damage or overheating.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Safety temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump
  • Heat exchanger cleaning kit
Showing 41–50 of 67
E9220

Your boiler has detected an unsafe level of heat or an electrical fault in its safety sensor and has locked down to prevent damage.

High Engineer only £140-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Safety Temperature Sensor
  • Heat Exchanger Overheat Stat
  • Wiring Harness

Related codes

E9224

Your boiler has shut down because a safety sensor has detected that the system is overheating or the sensor itself has a loose connection.

High Engineer only £120-250

Parts commonly replaced

  • Safety temperature sensor
  • Overheat thermostat
  • Wiring harness

Related codes

E9276

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected internal water temperatures that are dangerously high, indicating the system is overheating.

High Engineer only £120-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump
  • Heat exchanger (cleaning)

Related codes

E9277

Your boiler has shut down because it has detected internal water temperatures that are dangerously high, likely due to a circulation or sensor issue.

High Engineer only £180-350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Safety temperature sensor
  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger

Related codes

E9285

Your boiler has shut down because it thinks the water returning to the unit is dangerously hot, which usually means water isn't circulating properly through your radiators.

High DIY-safe £120-280

What to check first

  1. Check that all radiator valves are fully open
  2. Ensure the boiler pressure gauge is between 1 and 1.5 bar
  3. Check that the external pump (if visible) is running and not stuck

Parts commonly replaced

  • Return temperature sensor (NTC)
  • Circulation pump
  • Main heat exchanger (flushing)

Related codes

E9318

Your boiler has detected that the connection to the sensor monitoring exhaust fumes has been broken or lost, causing the system to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£220

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flue gas temperature sensor
  • Wiring harness connector

Related codes

EA227

Your boiler is failing to detect a flame after it starts up, causing it to shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is open
  2. Check if other gas appliances in your home are working
  3. Reset the boiler using the reset button to see if it was a temporary glitch

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
  • Condensate trap
EA229

Your boiler has lost its flame while running because it cannot detect a steady signal that the gas is burning correctly.

High DIY-safe £100-280

What to check first

  1. Check if other gas appliances in your home, such as a hob, are working to confirm gas supply.
  2. If you have a prepay gas meter, ensure it has sufficient credit.
  3. Press the Reset button once to see if the fault was a temporary glitch.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Ignition lead
  • Gas valve
EA234

Your boiler has lost its connection to the gas valve, meaning it cannot light the flame to provide heating or hot water.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Gas valve wiring harness
  • Gas valve
  • Main PCB
EA261

Your boiler's computer brain has developed a fault and can no longer safely control the burner to heat your home.

High Engineer only £350-£650

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit
  • PCB (Main Control Board)

Related codes

Showing 51–60 of 67
EA269

Your boiler is trying to light itself for too long without successfully sensing a flame, so it has shut down for safety.

High DIY-safe £120-350

What to check first

  1. Check that your gas emergency control valve is open and you have credit on your gas meter
  2. Press and hold the reset button for five seconds
  3. Check if other gas appliances in your home, such as a hob, are working correctly

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ignition Electrode
  • Flame Sensing Probe
  • Gas Valve
EC256

Your boiler's computer system has detected an internal electronic fault, preventing the heating and hot water from starting up.

High Engineer only £250-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit
  • PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring Harness
EH258

Your boiler's computer brain has developed a serious internal fault or a loose connection, preventing it from starting the burner safely.

High Engineer only £350-£650

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit (PCB)
  • Wiring Harness
F0238

Your boiler's internal computer memory chip has developed a fault, preventing the system from identifying itself and operating safely.

High Engineer only £180-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • KIM (Boiler Identification Module)
  • MCB (Main Control Board)
F0239

Your boiler’s internal computer chip has encountered a communication error or technical failure, preventing the system from starting up.

High Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • KIM (Boiler Identification Module)
  • Burner Control Unit
  • Wiring Harness
F0278

Your boiler has stopped working because its internal computer has detected a problem with the sensors that monitor its performance.

High Engineer only £120-280

Parts commonly replaced

  • Flow/Return Temperature Sensor
  • Wiring Harness
  • Main PCB
F0279

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a serious internal fault and cannot safely manage the burner.

High Engineer only £350-£650

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • KIM (Communication Module)
F0280

Your boiler's main internal computer has developed a serious fault and is unable to safely control the flame.

High Engineer only £350-£650

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit (PCB)
  • Internal Ribbon Cables
F0287

Your boiler's internal computer has encountered a communication error or a hardware failure, preventing it from safely starting the burner.

High Engineer only £250-£550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit
  • KIM Card (Key Identification Module)
  • Main PCB

Related codes

F0290

Your boiler's main computer brain or internal identity module has suffered a critical failure and cannot communicate correctly.

High Engineer only £280-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Burner Control Unit
  • KIM (Boiler Identification Module)
  • Printed Circuit Board (PCB)

Related codes

Showing 61–67 of 67
F7228

Your boiler has detected a flame signal even though it hasn't started the burner yet, which is causing it to shut down for safety.

High Engineer only £120-£350

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation electrode
  • Flame sensing lead
  • Control PCB
  • Gas Valve
F7328

Your boiler has experienced a brief interruption to its electrical power supply and needs to be restarted.

Low DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Press the Reset button on the boiler control panel
  2. Check if there was a recent power cut or if a fuse has tripped in your home
  3. Ensure the boiler's isolation switch is fully in the ON position

Parts commonly replaced

  • None (usually a reset only)
  • PCB (if fault persists)
FA306

Your boiler detects a flame signal even though it has commanded the burner to turn off, which may be due to a faulty sensor or a sticking gas valve.

Emergency Engineer only £180-450

Parts commonly replaced

  • Ionisation Electrode
  • Gas Valve
  • PCB (Control Board)
FD231

Your boiler has shut down because it lost power while it was already trying to deal with an internal safety error.

High Engineer only £150-550

Parts commonly replaced

  • Main PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
  • Wiring Harness
  • External Fuse/Isolator
H07

Your boiler has detected that the water pressure in the system is too low, causing it to reduce its output or stop working to prevent damage.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Locate the external filling loop, which is usually a silver flexible hose beneath or near the boiler.
  2. Open the one or two taps on the filling loop slowly until you hear water entering the system.
  3. Monitor the pressure gauge on the boiler front or digital display and close the taps once it reaches 1.5 bar.

Parts commonly replaced

  • Filling loop valve
  • Pressure sensor
  • Expansion vessel
HrE

Your boiler is experiencing a critical control system failure that causes it to shut down and attempt to restart itself repeatedly.

High Engineer only £250-600

Parts commonly replaced

  • Universal Burner Controller (UBA)
  • Wiring harness
  • Transformer
rE

Your boiler is undergoing a system reset, which means it is attempting to restart itself after detecting an internal error or interruption.

Medium DIY-safe £0-120

What to check first

  1. Wait for the boiler to complete the reset sequence automatically
  2. Press and hold the reset button for 5 seconds if the code remains on the screen
  3. Check if there has been a recent power cut or surge in your home

Parts commonly replaced

  • Control board
  • External sensor